Friday, December 10, 2010

LensHero Launches

« Back to news

News image

Snapsort has launched its newest website, LensHero, designed to help photographers find lenses for various digital cameras. “For many people purchasing their first or second lens the process can be frustrating, especially for beginners who don’t know where to start,” says Snapsort co-founder.Christopher Reid. “LensHero simplifies the process, allowing photographers to find lenses compatible with their camera, and easily explore lenses based on style of photography and budget.” The site even lets visitors enter their current lenses and get instant suggestions on lenses that could expand their photography style. current lenses and get instant suggestions on lenses that could expand your photography style.

Website: LensHero



View the original article here

Capturing Life Through Better Photography

« Back to news

News image

Professional photographer Tamara Lackey has just released a 100-page book and 90-minute DVD tutorial entitled Capturing Life Through Better Photography. Complete with before-and-after images that highlight Tamara’s tips, and simple sketches and lists to illustrate her points, the book aims to improve the skills of everyday photographers. Topics covered include lighting, composition, depth of field, and more; presented within a framework of typical shooting scenarios like Action, Group Settings, Babies & Children, Landscapes and Pets. The complete bundle sells for $59.99, but the DVD and the book can also be purchased as standalone products for $27.99 and $34.99, respectively.

Press Release

In time for the holiday season, professional photographer and best-selling author Tamara is releasing a spectacular new 100-page book and 90-minute DVD designed for consumers, offering quick tips and tricks for improving the skills of everyday photographers. Tamara Lackey’s Capturing Life Through (Better) Photography™  is a one-of-a-kind learning tool that combines Tamara’s years of experience behind the camera and guides readers through the most common photo-taking scenarios in everyday life. Complete with gorgeous photos, before-and-after images that highlight Tamara’s tips, and simple sketches and lists to illustrate her points, the book is part learning tool, part coffee table centerpiece while the DVD feels nothing like a “how to” instructional guide.

In the book and DVD, Tamara takes technical concepts like lighting, composition, styling and framing and puts them into simple-to-understand terms—breaking down each category into entertaining, real-life situations including:

·      Babies & Children: New moms with their newborns, birthday parties, at play or at rest, Tamara will guide everyday photographers on how to capture those one-time memories, naturally

·      Action: Whether it’s a pro baseball game or pee-wee football, Tamara helps everyone snap those split-second action shots that capture huge energy and achievements

·      Group Settings: Tired of those bad restaurant table photos? Tamara will show consumers how to utilize their surrounding and lighting options to get the picture they want

·      Landscapes: They seem straight forward, but Tamara guides camera users to better images through lighting, positioning and focus

·      Pets: Man’s Best Friend has never looked so good. Tamara leads people and their pets to better photos without the help of treats



View the original article here

Pentax Optio RS1000 Review

The Pentax Optio RS1000 is a well-specified entry-level compact camera with a clever twist - its front panel can be personalised with your own photographs or illustrations, potentially making every RS1000 unique. There is also a RS1000 website where you can can choose, download and print ready-made templates. In addition, the Pentax RS1000 has 14 megapixels, 4x zoom lens, a 3 inch LCD screen, Auto Picture Mode, 720p video, Auto-tracking AF mode and a range of nine digital filters. Available in a black or white base colour, the Pentax Optio RS1000 is available for £119.99 / $149.95.

Nowadays, more than ever it seems, the humble digital snapshot needs a special gimmick in order not to drown amidst a sea of otherwise nigh identically specified rivals, whether that gimmick be a touch screen, flip out USB arm, or something else.

In the case of the boxy 14 megapixel Optio RS1000 from Pentax, the 'something else' comes in its ability to download (from pentax.co.uk) and custom make printed 'skins' for its faceplate. These are slipped under the transparent cover provided, which is already screwed onto its front as you lift the camera from its box. A pack of pre-cut glossy photo paper came included with our review sample, allowing us to print our own favourite shots and use them to personalise the front. For those who can be bothered it's another way to make the user/manufacturer experience more interactive.

Even without such art and craft accoutrements, the camera in its minimalist 'naked' state still looks pretty neat. An underlying design of concentric circles spreading out from the lens itself - more noticeable on the black liveried version than the white alternative we were subsequently sent - at least hints that some effort has been made, whilst the Perspex-like cover has a mirrored effect when viewed at certain angles.

This initial favourable impression continues when we examine the build quality, which feels solid and not at all plastic-y. A good sign, especially when you consider the RS1000 has a street/online price around the £100 mark, based on its manufacturer's £120 recommendation. This suggests possible gifting potential - for teens and twentysomethings perhaps, who may conceivably want to change their camera's appearance as often as their protest placards.

With a width and height barely larger than a credit card this Pentax will unsurprisingly will fit unobtrusively into any pocket or bag, and weighs just 130g with battery and optional SD card loaded into the compartment at its base. Incidentally, here we find one of the weak points, in that after a couple of weeks of using the camera the door protecting said compartment was refusing to shut properly.

Of a more immediate practical concern is the fact that there's no grip of any shape or description provided on the RS1000, and our fingers did tend to slide around on the Optio's transparent cover. There's no rest for the thumb at the back either; it instead falls upon a rather stiff lever for operating its retractable 4x optical zoom lens which boasts a modest yet usefully wide angle focal range equivalent to 27.5-110mm in 35mm terms. The possibility for camera shake seems inevitable - the one concession Pentax seems to have made being a rounded indentation at the left hand edge of the top plate, into which the forefinger of your left hand slips comfortably if you attempt to steady the camera in both hands.

There is also a row of three tiny raised nodules at the back to attempt to prevent the thumb from slipping onto the 3-inch, 230k dot resolution LCD screen, used for both composition and review in the absence of any optical viewfinder. Despite the standard resolution it's impressively clear, though visibility does suffer under sunlight. Curiously, when shooting a close subject at maximum wide angle our review sample's rear LCD displayed a quite pronounced fish eye effect - but when downloaded this hadn't translated to the images themselves. Though that was welcome, it's also slightly worrying when what you see isn't exactly what you get.

Controls are reasonably idiot proof, up to a point. While the red dot button on its top plate misleads with impressions of it perhaps being a dedicated video record button - it's actually the on/off button - video does feature here and impressively at a high resolution 1280x720 pixels, with a choice of transitional rates of either 15fps or 30fps.

While that sounds good on paper, the built-in microphone (at the side, presumably so it's not muffled by the accessory faceplate) picks up wind noise when shooting outdoors. Also rather frustrating is the fact that the optical zoom is disabled when shooting clips. Nudge the zoom lever when recording video and the camera makes a couple of unattractively lurching digital crops instead, so it's best to leave this facility alone entirely if aiming for the smoothest results.

In fact, this appears to be a general rule of thumb when operating the RS1000. Stick to the basics of pointing and shooting and you'll achieve the best results. Try and push the envelope and you'll regret it. Indeed its limitations prompted us to spend longer than usual on framing and composition to achieve an end result worth keeping - which you can be the judge of by examining our sample images posted. Its intuitiveness and approachability also means that the Pentax is the kind of camera that anyone, from the kids to grandma, should be able to pick up and starting shooting with straightaway.

From the front then the RS1000 presents its best 'fascia'. It looks sleek and cool, lozenge shaped window for the flash sitting next to a small porthole for the AF assist/self timer lamp. Though it inevitably dominates the faceplate in its dormant state, the lens r looks rather short and stubby when the camera is activated, perhaps betraying its 'value' price point.

With a press of the top mounted power button the RS1000 shimmies into life in just over a second, lens extending to maximum wideangle setting and the rear LCD screen bursting into life with a sprightly audio flourish that sounds like a chirruping bird.

Shooting modes aren't given their own button or dial on the RS1000. Instead they're to be found at six o'clock on a familiar four-way command pad on the backplate.

Press this and a two-tiered toolbar of cartoonish icons - much resembling a collection of scene modes - appears across two successive screens. Included here are the default of Auto Picture mode, alongside program mode and video shooting mode. Whilst those are the basics, we also get 19 further options, including pre-optimised settings for the regulars of portraits and landscapes, as well as photographs of children, pets and night scenes. There's even an auto tracking AF mode to maintain focus on moving subjects, and, should you be happy to witness a resolution drop to a lowly 640x480 pixels, a burst shooting mode selectable when in alternative Program mode allowing up to 16 images to be captured over a period of just two seconds. When shooting natural landscapes we particularly enjoyed the results achievable when selecting 'blue sky mode' from among the same shooting settings, which added an extra punch of colour.

Select one of the above options, press the shutter release button, set into a globule-like template next to the power button, and there's the briefest of pauses while the Pentax determines focus and exposure, AF point highlighted in green with a further 'chirrup' of affirmation that the user is now free to proceed and fire the camera's shutter. Do so and a full resolution JPEG is committed to memory in around two seconds, screen briefly blanking out and then freezing to display the captured image whilst it is undertaking the process; again not a bad timing given this class of camera.

Most of the RS1000's controls are to be found at the rear, ranged to the right of the backplate LCD. Beneath the rocker switch for adjusting the zoom are featured dedicated playback and face detection mode buttons, and underneath this again we get that four-way control pad with central 'OK' button for effecting function changes. Ranged around this are four settings for adjusting the self timer, switching to macro/close up focus, activating (or disabling) the built-in flash, and the shooting mode option which we've just dealt with.

When in playback mode a subsequent press of the 'mode' option and a toolbar appears across the screen. It's here we find a slideshow option and several ways of making rudimentary image edits, such as cropping, rotating and resizing pictures. There are also a handful of funky digital effects, including a wacky small face filter for those with porky chops, blemish-smoothing 'natural skin tone' option, plus the ability to turn a pre-captured  colour picture to black and white, sepia, or add cutesy hearts or star filters to a shot.

It was when attempting to do the latter that we experienced the first problem over a two-week test period with the RS1000. Trying to apply a digital filter to a pre-captured image and save a new file alongside the old, the camera froze up whilst it was attempting to do so. We tried the old failsafe of removing and re-inserting the battery to find that, whilst the camera was otherwise working normally, the LCD screen and resulting images had turned a lurid Wizard of Oz shade of green. Clearly something had gone horribly wrong in RS1000 world. A quick diagnosis from Pentax confirmed the blue colour channel had 'dropped out' leaving just the red and green working, possibly due to an internal short circuit - not something we'd previously come across in a decade of camera reviews. A second review sample was dutifully dispatched, we tried the same filter application again, and are happy to report the above issue seems like an unfortunate one-off.

The last buttons on the Pentax Optio's back plate are a self-explanatory menu button and an adjacent one for switching to Pentax's 'green' [read 'easy') mode, the latter doubling up as a delete button if in playback mode. A press of the 'green' button and the screen display icons automatically enlarge for improved legibility, whilst a subsequent press of the menu button reveals that all the shooting options that could otherwise have a bearing on image quality have been stripped away. All you can do here is point and shoot - so the setting is perfect for when you're handing the camera to someone else and don't want them inadvertently changing anything. That said, the choice of formatting the card, and therefore wiping all those precious photos, is still perhaps unwisely provided within the set up options.

One flank of the camera meanwhile features nothing but a built-in mono microphone, and at the other side, we find an unprotected joint AV/USB output port along with a lug for attaching a wrist strap.

At the base of the camera, protected by a sliding catch, is a compartment housing both the camera's rechargeable lithium ion battery and a vacant slot for the optional SD/SDHC card. The catch feels slightly flimsy in its plastic-ness and we can see this weakening over time. Again we have to bear in mind this camera's £100 price point however, which forgives a little corner cutting here and there. That extends to the slightly disappointing battery life which is limited to 200 shots, making this more a camera for a quick weekend break than a week's holiday, unless also packing the mains plug charger.

So while there is both good and bad about the RS1000's handling and performance - for our money, fortunately, more weighted toward the former than latter - how do the images it delivers measure up? Normally we can't expect greatness at this price point, so does the Optio confirm or confound our expectations? Read on to find out…

ShareThis If you enjoyed this review, please spread the word by bookmarking or promoting it on social sites, post it on Facebook, or email it to a friend!

, , , , , , , , , , , , ,

DIWAPhotographyBLOG is a member of the DIWA organisation. Our test results for the Pentax Optio RS1000 have been submitted to DIWA for comparison with test results for different samples of the same camera model supplied by other DIWA member sites.


View the original article here

Long Exposures: Weekly Photography Challenge

photo by MumbleyJoe - exposure: 114 sec photo by MumbleyJoe - exposure: 114 sec

This week your photography challenge is to take and share a long exposure image.

There are a lot of different approaches to this type of photography (we’ll link to some suggestions below) so feel free to use any technique you wish whether it be super long exposures (perhaps of star trails) or just slowing things down a little to capture a little movement or perhaps you want to experiment with something like slow sync flash.

Suggested Reading/Examples of Long Exposure Photography

Once you’ve taken your ‘long exposure’ photos – choose your best 1-2, upload them to your favourite photo sharing site either share a link to them even better – embed them in the comments using the our new tool to do so.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Twitter or other sites with Tagging tag them as #DPSLONGEXPOSURE to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

Also – don’t forget to check out some of the great shots posted in last weeks Signs challenge – there were some very amusing shots submitted.


View the original article here

Remote Controlled 5D Mark II Shoots Space Shuttle Launch

« Back to news

News image

Pro photographer Scott Audette, who shoots NASA shuttle launches for Reuters, has assembled an innovative long-distance remote-control system for his Canon EOS 5D Mark II Digital SLR camera that includes Canon’s WFT-E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter and an Apple iPad. “I was in the lobby of a hotel in Titusville, Florida with my colleagues from the other wire services and a friend from Apple,” Audette recalled. “I asked if I could borrow his iPad and see if I could control my Canon 5D Mark II, which was attached to a Canon WFT-E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter and the other gear 26 miles away in the front window of our trailer at the Kennedy Space Center. We instantly dialed into the camera and were able to control it and take pictures with it. Everybody’s faces went blank as they realized what a game-changer this was for remotely capturing and transmitting images, and we knew it would be perfect for the next shuttle launch.”

Canon Press Release

Canon’s New WFT-E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter and EOS 5D Mark II DSLR Accelerate Timely Photojournalism and Help Expand the Frontiers of New Media

Few news events are as thrilling as the launch of a NASA space shuttle. From the thunderous ignition of its rocket engines and boosters to its meteoric ascent into earth’s orbit, each launch is history in the making. Now, as the last few scheduled missions of the nation’s nearly 30-year space shuttle program draw near, their historic significance becomes all the more important.

Scott Audette is a veteran photojournalist who uses Canon’s EOS 5D Mark II Digital SLRs to capture images of shuttle launches for the Reuters news agency. For the shuttle’s next launch, his equipment will also include Canon’s WFT-E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter and an Apple iPad to help remotely control his EOS 5D Mark II and view its images from several miles away. Best of all, Audette’s system will enable him to download and email Reuters full-resolution launch jpegs almost instantly.

“The ultimate goal in news photography today is to deliver pictures to the client faster than anyone else,” Audette explained. “In the past decade this business has gone from being one of hours to one of seconds. Today, with the Internet and new media, it’s all about whose picture appears first on newspaper web sites, as opposed to their print editions. This business also demands that you do things in the most efficient and cost-effective way. The new connection options and enhanced controls of Canon’s WFT-E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter enable me to remotely control my 5D Mark II camera, and then log-in and choose the one or two frames to send to the client, pull them off the camera, and then email them just a few minutes later.”

Game-Changer
Canon’s WFT-E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter is designed to provide several different connection options for users to remotely connect, view and control the EOS 5D Mark II and quickly transmit image files from the point of capture – via a wireless or wired connection – to virtually any location accessible via the Internet or other data network. It is the key to tying together the technology Audette chose to use as part of his shuttle-photography system, which – in addition to his Canon EOS 5D Mark II DSLR – also includes a battery-operated laptop, mobile broadband “air card” cell-phone connection, broadband router, and Apple’s new iPad tablet computer.

At a shuttle launch earlier this year Audette had configured his EOS 5D Mark II and WFT E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter for remote access via the Internet, and it was then that he decided to experiment with yet another piece of equipment to remotely connect and fire his EOS 5D Mark II via the Internet. “I was in the lobby of a hotel in Titusville, Florida with my colleagues from the other wire services and a friend from Apple,” Audette recalled. “I asked if I could borrow his iPad and see if I could control my Canon 5D Mark II, which was attached to a Canon WFT-E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter and the other gear 26 miles away in the front window of our trailer at the Kennedy Space Center. We instantly dialed into the camera and were able to control it and take pictures with it. Everybody’s faces went blank as they realized what a game-changer this was for remotely capturing and transmitting images, and we knew it would be perfect for the next shuttle launch.”

Deciding to put his brain-child to the test, Audette used his system for the May 14 blast-off of the shuttle Atlantis, and he achieved the results he was seeking. He conserved power in the 5D Mark II DSLR’s internal battery by using a Canon intervalometer to wake the camera twice each hour, during which time he could control and test the camera. A sound trigger ensured that the camera would capture the launch itself.

“Once I saw that I could use Canon’s WFT-E4 II A Wireless File Transmitter for this purpose, I realized it opened up an unlimited opportunity to put cameras in unique places where they could never be placed before,” Audette enthused. “As long as your camera is powered, awake, and connected to the Internet you can control it and access its pictures.”

Expanding New Media
In addition to news, Audette uses his Canon EOS 5D Mark II DSLR to shoot both stills and HD video of professional sports. Recent assignments have included directing and shooting a video open for an NHL hockey team.

“The reason I got that gig is because the client likes the look I can get with the 5D Mark II,” he noted. “I am primarily a still photographer, but as the business evolves, so do I. Canon’s 5D Mark II is revolutionary because it enables still photographers to participate in creating new media by capturing both still and HD motion images fairly easily for the same assignment.”

“The early digital cameras made pictures that lacked depth, color, and feeling,” Audette continued. “Today’s digital cameras with Canon’s DIGIC processors, however, enable photographers to create images that look organic and natural. I own lots of cameras, but 90 percent of the time I reach for my 5D Mark II. You can’t beat it. The quality is stunning. The files are beautiful, the video is beautiful, and it’s exciting. Best of all, it lets you concentrate on being a photographer again.”

Photo: Scott Audette



View the original article here

Rollei Flexipod 100

« Back to news

News image

The new Flexipod 100 from Rollei is a flexible camera tripod featuring rubber legs. The slender mini-tripod can be positioned securely anywhere thanks to its rubber limbs that can be bent and rotated through 360°. Its compact size of 200 x 40 x 40 mm and a weight of just 102 grams also make it easy to transport and stow. Compact cameras and mini camcorders with a weight of up to 800g can be attached to the quick release plate with a 1/4-inch tripod socket. The Flexipod 100 will be available as of the end of January 2011 in pink, blue, red, green and grey for €14.95.

Rollei Press Release

A tripod for every occasion: Flexipod 100

Hamburg, 2 December 2010

The new Flexipod 100 from Rollei presents an extremely flexible camera tripod, which can be used pretty much everywhere, as its flexible, rubber feet adapt to any surface perfectly.

Bothersome readjustments of the tripod are therefore a thing of the past! No matter where you want to position it, on soft ground or uneven surfaces for example, the slender rubber tripod can be positioned securely anywhere thanks to its rubber limbs that can be bent and rotated through 360°. It can even be attached to a door handle! The rubber-tipped support feet ensure that the tripod doesn’t slip when placed on horizontal surfaces, making it ideal for use outdoors.

The Flexipod 100 is especially suitable for nighttime and time-lapse shots, as well as family portraits using a self-timer function in your own living room. Portrait, landscape and macro shots are also a cinch thanks to the small clamp mounts, which can even be used to attach the tripod to a tree. Its compact size of 200 x 40 x 40 mm and a weight of just 102 grams also make it easy to transport and stow. The Flexipod 100 is therefore the ideal accessory for holidays, hiking tours and sports events.

Compact cameras and mini camcorders with a weight of up to 800 g can be attached to the quick release plate with a 1/4-inch tripod socket. The Flexipod 100 will be available as of the end of January 2011 in pink, blue, red, green and grey for 14.95 euros (RRP).



View the original article here

None For Me, Please


When I came to this city, there were so many things new to me. 24 hour delis, bagels, ethnic foods other than Italian, tall buildings, subways, men who were openly gay, pizza by the slice, egg creams, Macy's and all the other icons I had seen on TV now come to life.And prostitutes. This was a big curiosity for me and other friends. That women would openly flaunt their bodies and market their wares on the streets for all to behold. In the desolate area around the Lincoln Tunnel (shown in the photo), street walkers could be seen any evening, openly soliciting and discussing specifics and pricing.Sex for money has now moved off the streets of the city. Targeted by the Guiliani administration and contained by Bloomberg, little can be found on the streets. I have been told there is some activity in Hunt's Point, Bronx and recently there has also been trafficking in child prostitution. But most activity has gone online to places like the erotic services on Craigslist, escort services websites, Facebook and Twitter.In spite of having lived in a city where such services were readily available, I have never sought out the services of a prostitute. Even though New York City is extremely liberal and permissive, the idea of being with a woman, even a consenting adult, in such an act of intimacy for money has always been disturbing and not right to me and everyone I know. I never have forgotten the one scene in the film Klute where Jane Fonda plays a prostitute. While faking an orgasm and unbeknownst to the man she is with, she looks at her watch - the ultimate graphic depiction of the harsh reality of prostitution and the business of sex. On the streets or online - neither arena has been a temptation. Nor has the transgressions of former New York governor Eliot Spitzer with Kristen served as any fuel for justifying this behavior. None for me, please ...

View the original article here

Wedding Photography Tips to Get You Started

A Guest post by Mark Hauge from Ana Rita Photography.

When my wife and I decided to take up wedding photography a few years back I had a good idea of how much we would need to learn. I knew reading one book on wedding photography wouldn’t cut it but it was a place to start. I recall the book stating that for weddings you should be in aperture mode so off we went to shoot our first wedding for a friend. After shooting most of the ceremony in aperture mode I quickly realized there was a lot more to it when I saw the soft and blurry images from low shutter speeds due to the low lighting in the church. I knew we had a long ways to go.

As my wife and I have grown in experience over the past few years I have made mental and physical notes of what we have learned in hopes of sharing our insight in with others and to further our learning by going through the process. This is not meant to be a how to guide but instead an overview of tips and techniques that work well for us with our style of wedding photography which is photojournalistic with some minimal posing of subjects.

Every time we purchase new cameras I set them up knowing they will be used solely for weddings. Here are our preferred settings (we use Canon so your camera may have slightly different names for these settings):

Date/Time: Since both my wife and I shoot during weddings I make sure our cameras have the exact date and times down to the second. Later when we upload the photos to begin editing this makes everything quicker as the photos are in chronological order. There is no easy way to reorder photos in most photo software applications so this is a huge timesaver if you plan on posting the photos online as it simply looks better if everything is in order. It also saves time when you arrange the final wedding album.

Auto Focus Area: Many cameras have sophisticated systems to choose the best focal point for the shot. Our Canon 7D’s have 19 points which can be auto selected by the camera. When shooting weddings, we often find ourselves shooting between close objects to get the shot we want which might cause the camera to choose that object as the focal point. Also in low light it can be difficult for cameras to choose the correct focal point. If the camera chooses the wrong focal point and you need to change it you may have just missed your shot. As such, we set our cameras for single point autofocus and set the focal point to the center point. We then focus using this center focal point by pressing the shutter button half way and then composing our shot. This provides a consistent method for taking shots quickly as you are not composing your shot around varying focal points in the viewfinder and you can easily focus exactly where needed.

AF Servo Mode: This mode selects if the camera will keep a constant focus once you depress the shutter button halfway or if it will refocus if it detects the object is moving. Since many times during the procession subjects may be moving toward or away from you this is a nice feature to leverage which is why we set this to AI Focus mode (Canon). In AI Focus mode the camera will focus on still subjects as normal and notify you that focus has been achieved yet if the subject begins to move it will change to AI Servo mode which will attempt to keep your moving subject in focus until you take the photo.

Drive modes: Most cameras have various shooting speed selections from single shot mode, which is one frame per shutter button depress, to high speed continuous mode, which typically will take anywhere from 4-8 fps depending on the camera’s fastest shooting speed. We set our cameras at low speed continuous for weddings. That way we can take several shots quickly without making too much noise and without taking an excessive amount of photographs which can quickly fill up a memory card and add to your post production time.

Metering Mode: Now that we have focus set to single point we also want to tell the camera to look at the center of the image when setting exposure and this is done by setting the metering mode to center weighted average. The camera then gives higher priority to what is in the middle of the image and less to what is at the edges when it sets exposure. We also set our flashes to meter in the center, since we use flashes mostly for portrait shots, which can typically be done right on the camera when the flash is attached or on the flash itself.

Rear curtain sync: This tells the flash to go off at the end of the exposure as opposed to the beginning. This will make low light shots, such as during dancing, look more realistic as any motion blur will be behind the subject instead of in front of it. This setting can also be made on the camera with the flash attached or on the flash itself.

Highlight Warning: Most cameras will have this setting which will flash areas of the image on the LCD that are blown out in the highlights. This is a must since the last thing you want to do is blow out the bride’s dress causing you to lose all of the detail so we have this set to enabled all of the time. If we take a shot and notice areas of the image are flashing on our LCD screen we know we need to lower our exposure or turn down the flash using the flash exposure compensation setting.

White Balance: We choose to leave this set at auto. As photojournalistic photographers we take lots of photos and are thus moving around too much to be setting white balance continually. White balance settings often change even during a ceremony as the bride and groom move around so we prefer to do our adjustments in post-production using the bride’s dress to set the white balance which gives a consistent and accurate white balance to the images.

Getting Ready: Typically the day starts off with my wife taking photos of the bride while I do the same with the groom. We always attempt to use existing light sources but find using the flash is often a necessity, especially indoors. During this time we both use diffusers on our flash and angle the flash upright at approximately a 45 degree angle. This gives a nice diffused light source and cuts down on shadows which are easy to come by in small rooms where people are often getting ready. For shooting modes we will use shutter priority mode and set our shutter speed to 1/60 or faster to get nice sharp stills since the subjects tend to be moving around as they prepare for the day. Manual mode is also used if we find ourselves stationary for a period of time to give the photos a more consistent look. Aperture priority may be used for detail shots of the rings, shoes, and other accessories to provide nice bokeh or to increase depth of field as needed. If you are using flash also practice with lowering the camera exposure to darken the background to give your subject more presence.

50 mm, F1.4, 1/160 sec, ISO 400, flash on

The Procession: We always attempt to practice this shot ahead of time during the rehearsal if we are in a church we have not been to prior. It’s important to know where to stand which the church’s event planner should instruct you on ahead of time. We always shoot a full length portrait shot keeping in mind the camera should be at about the midway point of the subject. This is a great opportunity to use manual mode since you will take all the procession shots from the same spot. This will give your photos the consistent look you will want if they are going into an album. Again make sure to check that shutter speed is at least 1/60 sec. if not faster. We prefer 1/100 of a second or faster when we know people will be moving. A typical setting for this shot would be 1/100 sec., F4.0, and ISO 400. Keep in mind there may be a wall behind your subjects so this a shot where you will want to use a flash bracket to keep the flash over your camera so as to minimize shadows showing on the back wall of the church. Again we typically have a flash diffuser on our flash keeping in mind they are not effective much past 10 feet so if the shot is longer than that we will remove the diffuser.

The Ceremony: This is the time to be creative but aware of lighting conditions. Since we move around a lot we will typically put our cameras in shutter priority mode to prevent low shutter speeds which might cause blur. We typically set the camera to 1/60 or 1/80 of a second depending on available light but we will go lower if needed so as to not go above ISO 1600 keeping noise at a minimum. Often we find our aperture maxed out at F2.8 which is fine by us. The depth of field at F2.8 is typically more than enough to have both the bride and groom in focus with a minimal amount of bokeh which always looks great. ISO may go up to 1600 or 3200 in some situations for which later use software such as Imagenomic’s Noiseware to remove the noise during post processing. Having a zoom lens is important to get in close from the back of the church (see below).

200 mm, F2.8, 1/80 sec, ISO 1600, no flash

For the formal portraits after the ceremony we always use a tripod and set the camera to manual mode. The tripod helps maximizes sharpness of the photo and make it easier to move around to pose and direct. For indoor weddings we almost always use a flash. A typical setting for the portraits would be: 1/60 second shutter speed, F5.6 (or higher you need more light), and ISO 400. Keep in mind you are setting the exposure for the background so one thing we always think about is how much of the background do we really want to see? If it’s a beautiful background we may set the exposure to normal. If the background has nothing going for it we may set the exposure down to -2 stops to darken it a bit and make your subjects stand out more. This is done by raising the shutter speed. It’s certainly personal preference and we always take some test shots to verify the look we want. We use our flash in TTL mode and take it off camera using a sync cord or wireless. Our entire setup time is just a few minutes and we do not typically use a light meter. Remember, when using a flash, exposure becomes your friend, just like bokeh, to handle difficult backgrounds. In the shot below we used a -1 stop exposure to darken the background since the colors in it were a bit rich could be overpowering to the subject if not subdued.

38 mm, F2.8, 1/60 sec, ISO 400, flash on

Here we will set our cameras back to shutter speed mode so we can take candid shots quickly without the need to change settings. If the reception is outdoors we may use aperture priority mode since available light is plentiful so we can choose the depth of field. Any outdoor portraits of the bride and groom would also be taken in aperture mode with the flash turned on for fill flash if needed. Flash exposure may need to be set to -1 or lower to make the flash blend nicely which we always verify on the LCD. Aperture settings would be F4.0 or lower for more depth of field if we wanted to show the background otherwise we might raise aperture to blur the background to draw more focus to our subjects.

32 mm, F4.0, 1/80 sec, ISO 100

Cake cutting and toasts is another time when a flash bracket is handy as often the couple will be standing near walls so keeping the flash over the camera for these portrait shots is essential. If you don’t have a flash bracket you are better off taking the shot in landscape and then making it a portrait image during post processing to help minimize shadows.

Finally for the dance we continue to take flash photos with our diffusers attached bouncing the light off the ceiling when possible. If we need more light we take off the flash diffusers. We also will lower our shutter speeds down to 1/10 sec. or lower to bring in more background light. This works fine since the flash freezes the motion of your subjects so blur is limited and it keeps the background from being overly dark with no detail.

Reception photos are a great time to experiment with different settings on your camera and trying out new ideas. We often will get on chairs to try a different perspective or you can also utilize live mode, if your camera has it, to take the shot leveraging the back LCD monitor which allows you to raise the camera above the action and still see your composition.

If someone asked me how to do a wedding and I had thirty seconds to respond I would advise them to use aperture priority mode outdoors, shutter priority mode indoors, and use manual mode for portraits leveraging a tripod and flash. While this is certainly no catch all advice it certainly has helped us to have a high level game plan in place which we then can build from as our experience grows. The worst feeling is getting into a situation where you aren’t ready to take the shot when it occurs so these basics are our failsafe. Over time I have come to enjoy using manual mode because in addition to giving the images a consistent look, it slows you down and makes you “think” more about your composition and your camera settings before you press the button.

I’m sure our techniques will continue to evolve over time. It’s that continual learning process which makes photography so rewarding for us. Each and every wedding we do prepares us for the next and this evolution will be your best learning tool and confidence builder as it has been for us.

Mark & Ana are an energetic husband and wife team specializing in wedding photography in Atlanta, GA.

Guest Contributor This post was written by a guest contributor to DPS. Please see their details in the post above. Become a Contributor: Check out Write for DPS page for details about how YOU can share your photography tips with the DPS community.


View the original article here

Oh-no, FBI gives a warning on the Barbie Video Girl

type="html">

Some of you might remember when we reported on the Barbie Video Girl, a doll with a built in camcorder.


Believe it or not, the FBI has sent an alert to those in the midst of holiday shopping.


Law enforcement is encouraged to be aware of unconventional avenues for possible production and possession of child pornography, such as the Barbie Video Girl


Seriously, the feds are worried about pedophiles using this doll to record child sexual abuse? Are these warnings on other video cameras? What makes this one different?


Source



Tags: , ,


Related posts





View the original article here

New Research Reveals A Nation Confused by Their Cameras

type="html">

News image




New research from Samsung reveals over a third of Brits are under-using their cameras, more so than other technologies such as mobiles or laptops.


Read more and comment »




View the original article here

An Introduction to Shooting Stars Trails

type="html">

An introduction to Shooting Star Trails by Trevor Williams.


150minutes.jpgI will attempt to explain here how to capture stars over a long exposure so that they leave behind a ?trail? or light stream. In fact, what are recorded are stationary stars and the rotation of the earth. The images that are created have a unique magic about them that captivate viewers.


A lot of people mention that their love of photography comes from capturing that perfect moment in time. When shooting at night those ?moments? become a little longer. When shooting star trails those ?moments? turn into hours. Capturing that perfect hour or two in time is what makes shooting star trails so fun for me. When I look at star trails pictures, they remind me that this big rock we live on is spinning out in space. For such amazing looking pictures the technique is really quite simple.


You will need a few things before you head out into the night especially a camera capable of shooting in ?bulb? mode. You will also need a cable release and a location far way from any city lights. I usually look for a place with some foreground interest like some trees or old buildings. You should also make sure you are prepared for the environment and weather.


Before we get started, I suggest getting into your car and driving far away from the city. The amount of visible stars will greatly increase the farther away you get from any town. There are a few ways to go about shooting star trails. We will start with the basics that do not change whether one is using a film camera or digital camera. Before setting up the camera on the tripod it is a good idea to set the focus. In the dark, it is not easy to get the AF to lock on to anything.


I suggest trying on one of the brighter stars in the sky and if that does not work set the focus to infinity. It may seem to be the obvious thing to do from the start but not all lenses are perfectly accurate. If you do manage to get your camera to auto-focus be sure to set it to MF or manual focus before starting your exposure or it will star searching again when you start the exposure. Once you have set focus set up the camera on the tripod and compose the shot.


temple.jpg


Try not to include any direct light sources, like streetlights, in the shot. One more thing to think about is white balance. I tend to shoot night skies with the white balance set to ?tungsten? which gives a nice blue look. Warmer colors tend to give the sky a dirty look. I now suggest doing a test shot which aids in composing your final shot. A 2-3 minute exposure at high ISO and wide aperture is enough to be able to see which direction the stars are moving and allow one to imagine what the final shot will look like.


For shooting options, one could choose to do it all in one shot or shoot multiple shots and ?stack? them after using computer software. I personally find that shooting multiple images and stacking them yields much nicer images than those done all in one shot. If you are going to do it all in one shot then your biggest concern should be noise.


To avoid noise, one could use a narrower aperture and a lower ISO speed but these settings will typically not pick up very many stars. If this is the route you are going to take, and I suggest at least trying it, then focus and compose the shot. Set the time value to ?bulb?, the aperture to its widest, and with and ISO at 200, try for a 30-minute exposure with a wide aperture of 3.5 – 4.0. If there is too much noise then drop the ISO to 100 and either shorten the exposure time or try a narrower aperture.


If shooting this way is your only option, there is something that you can do to increase the appearance of the length of the trails in the frame that will be limited due to the short exposure time. The actual length of the trails is determined solely by time but the appearance of the trail length is determined by the focal length you are shooting at. For example, stars over a 30-minute exposure would appear much longer in the frame at 50mm than they would at 10mm. If you find that you are limited to shorter exposure time due to noise, or any other factor, try shooting at a longer focal length to increase the appearance of the star trail length in relation to the frame.


Now on to my preferred way of shooting which is multiple shots that will be stacked later using computer software. Shooting this way means one can shoot with a wide aperture and a faster ISO that will pick up many more stars than the previous method. One can do this because noise becomes much less of a factor.


Jupiter_rising.jpg






Noise generally increases with time so you only have to worry about 30 seconds that means even at ISO 800 it is not really going to cause a problem. There is even an option to include dark frames, which are frames shot with the lens cap on, so that even the tiny bit of noise from ISO 800 over 30 seconds will be removed. With the higher end DSLR?s and the improvement of sensor noise reduction in recent models means that the ISO can be bumped even higher that will result in even more stars.


You will need to find the balance for your camera. Now with the evil ?noise? taken care of the only thing limiting your exposure time is your battery life. For this method it is necessary to use a cable release and it is also important to make sure there is plenty of space on your memory card. To get started, set your focus and compose your shot. Set the aperture to its widest and the ISO to 800. Dial in 30 seconds for the time value and the drive to ?continuous shooting? mode which allows for non-stop shooting when the cable release is locked. I suggest doing a test shot first to see if it looks all right. If anything is too bright then dial the ISO down.


Once you have taken the shots you will need to stack them using software. I recommend a freeware program, startrails.exe, available from www.startrails.de. Simply import the pictures, hit the ?build? button and wait for it to finish rendering. Don?t forget to save it when it is finished, as the there is no auto-save function built into this software. This is only available for Windows but there are many free actions for Photoshop if you are using a Mac. Simply search ?star trail Photoshop action? and you will find what you are looking for.


Single Image


Stacked Image


To complete the shots, an idea is to include a foreground element, like a structure or tree, and light it with a flashlight or flash. I highly recommend testing out how much light is needed before locking that cable release. Too much light will distract from that beautiful star filled sky you are about to create. For foreground lighting use a warm color if you chose to use the recommended ?tungsten? white balance.


If you use LED light with such a cold white balance setting as ?tungsten?, you will find objects in the foreground look very blue. To avoid this, you could apply an amber gel to a flash or use a tungsten light source like a flashlight that has a ?regular? light bulb as opposed to an LED bulb. I also suggest doing the foreground lighting at the beginning and again at the end incase one of those is unsuitable for the final shot. You simply exclude those frames from the stack.


If it was done in the middle and a mistake was made leaving those frames unusable it would create a break in the trail that would take away from the shot. A final note for those with experience in night photography, keep in mind that you are now shooting wide open with your ISO bumped to 800 so adjust your lighting techniques to accommodate for that with low power flashes or less lighting time with a flashlight.


All in all, a rather simple technique that yields captivating results.


Trevor Williams (aka tdub303) is a Canadian who has been stuck in Japan for over 10 years. He has busy days that leave him shooting at night. His night shots have led to him being featured in a light painting documentary titled Luminary that is due out in early 2011. He has also contributed two chapters to published book on night photography techniques. He is now shooting weddings and portraits in his free time and exhibits work at various galleries around Japan. Check him out at:



Post from: Digital Photography School








View the original article here

Sekonic DigiCineMate L-308DC

« Back to news

News image

The Sekonic DigiCineMate L-308DC is a versatile, easy-to-use digital exposure meter that can be used by photographers, videaographers and cinematographers alike. Users can pick the mode that displays only the specific information they need (e.g videographers ususally work with a fixed frame rate and shutter speed so they only need to know what f-stop to set on the lens, which the Sekonic DigiCineMate L-308DC displays with one-tenth of a stop accuracy). Lux and cande readout enables quick set up of lights for cinematographers. Photographers get all important information including EV. The meter can be used to measure ambient and flash light, and is capable of both reflected and incident light metering. The scheduled release is January 2011, with an suggested retail price of £239.99.

Press Release

L-308DC
DigiCineMate

Simplifying light control for today’s digital imagemakers

Tokyo, Japan,– Sekonic Corporation today announced the launch of the DigiCineMate L-308DC, the simple and easy-to-use light meter that can be customized to display only specific functions used by today’s DSLR videographers, cinematographers, and still photographers.
“The versatility of today’s cameras is expanding at an amazing rate. Digital SLR cameras are being used to record moving images and digital video cameras used to capture still frames for printing,” Mr. Hiroshi Arai, President of Sekonic Corporation stated in a recent interview. “Sekonic is a recognized leader in light control for the motion picture industry. We have applied this experience to create the perfect entry-level light meter for this new and growing group of electronic cinematographers,” he added.

The scheduled release is January 2011, with an SRP of £239.99

Features

Three Ways to Meter
Display only the specific functions you need for fast, easy operation.
HD Cine Mode: Perfect for today’s DSLR videographers. Make exposure readings and control light using shutter speeds and frame rates and get aperture settings with one-tenth stop accuracy.
Cine Mode: Designed for digital cinematography. Select from the most useful frame rates and shutter angles for exposure control with one-tenth stop accuracy. Lux and foot-candle readout enables quick set up of lights.
Photo Mode: Full control for traditional still-image photographers. Shutter-priority display of a full range of ambient and flash functions including Cord and Cordless flash measurement as well as ambient EV measurement.

Three Ways to Measure Light
The Lumisphere provides incident light readings for nearly foolproof exposure readings and enables lighting that scene before the talent arrives.
The Lumidisc is perfect for lighting green screens, adjusting ratios and taking lux and foot-candle measurements.
Reflected light readings enable measuring the brightness of subject tones, gray cards, light sources or window light.

Calibration Compensation
Adjust the L-308DC to film or digital camera sensors or matching the L-308DC to other handheld meters.

Custom Setting
Three custom settings tune meter operations and displays to fit your camera and metering requirements.

Illuminance Measurement
Lux (lx) and foot-candle (fc) display is especially useful for cinematography, theatrical and other applications that require precise control of light source brightness. Use custom settings to select lux, foot-candle or no display.

About JP Distribution:
JP Distribution is a successful division of Johnsons Photopia Ltd., an independent, privately owned company that can trace its roots back to 1743. JP Distribution is committed to providing an exclusive complimentary portfolio of leading brands for the professional and enthusiast photographer via a dedicated network of retail partners.
Sekonic, ILFORD, Broncolor, Vanguard, Westcott, Gepe, Geimuplast, Billingham, PocketWizard, Peli, Trek-Tech, Toffee, and Spudz are all part of the JP Distribution brand portfolio.
JP Distribution is located in the heart of England at the company headquarters in Newcastle under Lyme, Staffordshire, where the company employs a wealth of experienced personnel with an unrivalled level of imaging knowledge, expertise and experience.

For more information on JP Distribution, please visit: http://www.johnsons-photopia.co.uk



View the original article here

Ona Union Street DSLR and laptop bag

type="html">

This is a terrific bag from Ona known as Union Street, and perfect for a laptop and a DSLR camera.


You will notice that the peripherals can be arranged in such a way so that the DSLR and three lenses can be stashed within, not to mention room for pens, smartphone, navigation system, and then a laptop. The bag itself is weather resistant as well.


The Union Street from Ona is available now for $279.


Source



Tags: , , ,


Related posts





View the original article here

How to Get Vibrant Colours in Photos Without Overdoing It

Before digital photography and post production on computers, you picked film for the outcome of image you wanted.  For neutral, run of the mill shots any conventional color film would do the trick, but for move vibrant and saturated images, you would choose something like Fuji Velvia slide film or my personal favorite, Kodak E-100 VS, or Very Saturated.  The chemical emulsion within helped produce vibrant colors.  The downside of course, in addition to the cost of film and developing, is that you had to finish that roll before changing films, whereas digital will allow you to shoot all day and apply whatever effects you want in post.  Achieving vibrant color without overdoing it can often be a challenge though, but here are some tips to get it just right.

Photo By pumpkincat210

First and foremost, nail your exposure.  This is perhaps the number one rule in any kind of photography, but for images where you want to show the vibrant colors of your subject, under exposing can give the photo a gray-overcast look and over-exposing can blow out the highlights and kill the underlying color.

Next, set your white balance.  Again, this tip applies to every type of photography and we’ve shown you how to do it already, it’s crucial to the color and tone of your images.

Moving on, there’s one more set of tools that can be used before post processing and it too stems from something we’ve already shown you how to use, color filters.  Circular polarizing filters are favorites among those who want to get saturated skies, but the Cokin line offers even more choices and adds all kinds of flexibility.

Getting the best possible image to start with, from exposure and white balance to creative filters will give you a solid platform to work from when you start to post process.   Since the software used to edit by each person can vary widely, I’ll simply cover a few of the more general tips that should apply to programs like Photoshop, Lightroom and Aperture.

Photo By Pink Sherbet Photography

To a properly exposed photograph, adding in a touch more black will effect all colors, not just those which are black in the image, however you’ll usually have to then adjust the midtones and even the highlights.  Perhaps one of the easiest ways to get your vibrant color in post production is to rely on what someone else has already done for you! The old saying of why re-invent the wheel holds true here.

There are dozens of sites that offer thousands of actions (for Photoshop) and presets (for Lightroom) that were created by others who then share them, often for free.  Here are 45 Photoshop actions worth taking a look at to help increase the vibrancy.  Once installed, it’s a simple click to get the desired, preset effect.

photo © 2007 Marco Bellucci | more info (via: Wylio)

What’s worth noting with these free (and even paid for) actions is that they usually and almost always should have final tweaking to the end image.  No one else will be able to create a specific preset or action just for you and your tastes, which is the fun in photography.  The key to knowing when you’ve overdone an effect, or saturation level is when it no longer looks like it did in real life.  Additionally, over-saturating even a well exposed photograph or moving the individual color sliders too far will result in sever artifacting (even on RAW files) and a total loss of image quality.  Be sure to view your images at 100% when editing to ensure this isn’t happening.


View the original article here

7 Tips for Photographing a Conference

A Guest post on conference photography by Paul von Schwarzenfeld.

conference-photography.jpg
I love conferences. There’s always a lot of people mingling and networking, some interesting speakers and everything goes according to a fixed agenda — even the coffee breaks! There are no surprises and the stress levels are low, so long as you’ve done a good job preparing yourself for the event.

All the rules of photography apply to conferences as well. Assuming you already have some knowledge about them, I’d like to add some hopefully helpful but certainly not complete tips.

If you’re photographing the conference as a professional photographer, both yourself and the client should sign a contract that clarifies the way pictures are delivered, delineates the copyright situation, and last but not least, limits your liability as a photographer.

Keep in mind that the copyright demands on this kind of job might be different from those on other jobs because the conference organizer likely needs to publish the pictures online, and if they’re unable to do that, the shots may be worthless to them.

Also, forget about any price model including prints. They will never, ever need prints. The only prints that will be made out of your conference pictures will be found in the next year’s program, or other marketing material that will be printed by them or their designer. So shape your pricing model around a DVD delivery.

Don’t rely on your client reading the fine print of your contract. Even if your contract allows you to, discuss with them whether you can publish the conference pictures on your website or not. Sometimes the client won’t have a problem with that—they would probably even appreciate it because you’re doing additional marketing for their project. But they may want to limit the distribution of the images, so be careful to talk to your client beforehand about publishing the pictures you’re about to take.

Also, get ready for guests and speakers approaching you with the question: “Where can I see the pictures later? Do you have a business card?” Again, a clarification with your client will help you give a confident answer—or any answer at all.

Nothing is certain but death, taxes, and bad lighting at conference venues. I don’t want to discourage anybody who’s planning to work with a point-and-shoot camera, but if you want to have some quality shots at the end of the day, bring a SLR which can produce acceptable photos at ISO 1600, and an 85mm f1.8 lens. I wouldn’t dare to set a period at the end of this statement, but you can photograph a whole conference with two lenses: an 18-(…)mm f2.8 to capture some wide-angle frames of the venue, mingling crowds, and group shots, and the 85mm for the rest. A pricy but ideal combination would be a full frame SLR that can work with ISO 3200, and a 70-200mm f2.8 plus a wide-angle lens.

Bring your flash with you, but most likely you won’t use it. Ceilings are high, direct flash is a bad idea, and the speaker and audience may easy be bothered by you strobe-lighting the keynote.

I stopped using shoulder bags in favor of a lens-belt system that’s based on a simple waist bag (that accommodates batteries, memory, business cards, and one lens) with one or two belt lens cases. ?

It’s a $25 combination that doesn’t drag me down or hook me up with armrests.

A tripod is great for group shots, but it’s not a must-have, and a monopod can be helpful. Maybe you can leave some gear in the car or at the conference registration table. Go light-weight, since you’ll probably be stuck with that gear for a very long time.

conference-photography-2As soon as I’m booked for a conference, the website goes to my browser favorites. At the night before, I sneak over the agenda to check for changes and to prepare myself for the day. How many panels do they have? How many keynotes? How long is the job and how long do my batteries/memory cards have to last? I count on at least 50 pictures per panel and keynote. What’s the parking situation and how long does it take me to get there? When there is parking close by I can leave some stuff like my tripod in the car when it’s accessible within five minutes’ walk from the venue. Valet parking is a problem for that.

Arrive on time and grab an agenda or program from the registration table. It’s much more relaxed when you’re aware of the agenda and have a watch on hand. You don’t need to stay in the conference room all the time, but don’t miss any program points, and be back for the Q&A sessions.

Take a look at the program, specifically at the faces of the speakers and panelists. You don’t want to miss a picture of the CEO meeting another VIP at the coffee table because you don’t know what he looks like. Also, having some idea of what the conference is about could be helpful.

It’s a thin line: they conference-holders want you to take great pictures of the speaker, but they don’t want you to block the guests’ views or machine-gun people with your camera.

Some people talk and move themselves in a way that ensures every shot you take of them is great. Unfortunately these people are rare. Most of the speakers will have weird expressions on their faces, mouths that look bizarre when they’re snapped mid-sentence, and will make fast movements that blur in every single one of your shots. Some of the worst ones will constantly stare at their notes and only look up to the audience (and your camera) for half a second at the most!
?My only recipe for not machine-gun-shooting the speaker, but still getting some great shots, is to instinctively wait for the right moment (observe how the speaker moves – they’ll behave and move repetitively), make a single click, and check the display before making another shot. If you make a click every 10-15 seconds, people will not perceive this as too disturbing.

Speaking of disturbing: never stand in front of the guests or a video camera. If there is a camera, the videographer will love you for that, and the guests will feel more comfortable.

Remember: you’re not capturing a golden memory, you’re just another service person delivering … lunch … coffee … no: pictures. The guests or their companies paid a lot of money to attend the conference and to listen to whatever the person on the stage has to say. Keep that in mind. They are paying you to take pictures but they expect you to be as unobtrusive as possible.

The good news is: there’s no need to hurry. You have a lot of time to take the shots, since the speaker will be up there for at least 15 or 30 minutes.

conference-photography-3The speaker won’t run away. But you can move around and get some great shots from different perspectives.

Sit down on the floor in front of the stage, take a seat in the front row, take pictures from the back including some guests, take the same with a wide-angle lens including a lot of guests, walk around and make pictures from the side.

You are shooting marketing material so stop thinking exclusively like a photographer, and start thinking like a designer. How would you like to crop this guy into the next year’s website? Or into the conference report? Take a full-body picture from the front, the side, and maybe from behind. Take a landscape and a portrait picture, a close-up, and one from very far away. Include the conference logo if possible and make one with an interesting bullet point on the presentation screen in the background. Don’t leave out any possible perspective.

Try to make every image look full. Nobody wants pictures of empty seats.

At the end of the day, you want to go home with a story on your memory card. Shooting all the different angles of the keynote speaker alone is not going to cut it.

Make sure you talk to your client before the event, though. If they just want to have pictures of the one VIP speaker, forget about this part and save your shutter some actuations.

Assuming the client wants more than this, you have some serious work to do. Your photographic story starts at the registration table: guests getting the program and their nametags. They’re reading the program and getting coffee at the breakfast bar. Then the first speaker is talking. Take pictures of the guests listening, and wait for them to clap – that’s a great picture.

When it’s time for the Q&A session, get shots of the guests with the microphone asking questions, and of the speaker answering them. At the coffee break, take pictures of people mingling. Use your 85mm to get in close without being noticed. Then, in a panel, don’t forget to shoot a single panelist — capture them all, and get shots while they’re talking. What’s going on in the audience? Are there any crazy laptop stickers, fancy devices, or people making notes? Is the VIP keynote speaker already sitting in the audience? Try to capture everything that you would observe as a guest sitting in this room for a couple of hours.

Also, look at what’s going on outside: is there anything that needs to be documented? Did you take a picture of the programs being lined up on a table and that display the main sponsor put up in the foyer??At lunch, don’t take pictures of people chewing, but do try to make some shots of the food.

The rest of the day will continue in the same vein, but try to squeeze out new aspects of every network coffee break of the day, and don’t forget a single speaker.

Later, there may probably be time for group pictures of the conference organization team. Maybe you should address that, but sometimes the client isn’t interested, or they simply forget about it. I try to remind them that a group picture would be a great memory, but I don’t push it that hard, because at that point, they usually have other things in mind than pictures.

Remember, you’re producing marketing material. And that gets old very fast. So be faster and try to get the selection ready within 48 hours. These guys are not a wedding couple waiting for their lifetime memories — they want to post the shots on their website now! Taking fewer pictures and deleting some of the bad ones from your camera might help to speed things up afterwards.

Forget about black and white pictures, HDR, crazy colors, or any artistic experiments. You’re not producing art, you’re producing marketing material.

Sort out the pictures. A happy couple might be excited to sneak through hundreds of their pictures on a DVD, but a marketing rep from the company that held the conference is definitely not. I find a good practice is to hand out a master collection with not more than 300 pictures (for an eight-hour conference), plus a selection of the best 125, plus the very best 75 pictures. Each image is provided in low, medium, and high resolutions.

Be a service person. It’s hard to get into the conference business because every organizer will probably be thinking of hiring last year’s photographer again. But not always.

From my experience—I once organized a conference—I can give you a pretty bad example. I was creating the website for a conference, and we’d Iost the photo DVD. So I asked the last year’s photographer if he could send me a copy of the pictures again. He responded more than a week later, and charged $125 for burning and shipping the DVD to me. Guess what? He got the $125 but was never ever hired again.

Paul von Schwarzenfeld is a wedding and conference photographer based in the San Francisco Bay Area.
www.schwarzenfeldphotography.com

Guest Contributor This post was written by a guest contributor to DPS. Please see their details in the post above. Become a Contributor: Check out Write for DPS page for details about how YOU can share your photography tips with the DPS community.


View the original article here

Zoner Photo Studio 13

type="html">

News image




A new version of Zoner Photo Studio, which is claimed to bring a significant increase in speed for all operations thanks to multi-core optimisations, has just been announced.


Read more and comment »




View the original article here

Jak Home: Eclectic Furnishings in Russian Hill Store Profile

type="html">

12092010JakHomeLogo.jpg Located in San Francisco's Russian Hill neighborhood, this is one of those shops that mixes vintage accessories, one-of-a-kind pieces, and new furniture in a homey way that makes you wish your apartment was as cool as the store.



Read Full Post




View the original article here