Monday, November 29, 2010

DPS Giveway! – Trey Ratcliff’s HDR Video Tutorial

Ladies and gentlemen, this is exciting! We are giving away not one, but three free copies of Trey Ratcliff’s downloadable version on his HDR Video Tutorial!

Trey has taught thousands upon thousands of people how to do HDR through workshops, his award winning HDR Tutorial on his site, his book “A World In HDR” and now he has released a video tutorial which is just like going to a workshop! Watch as Trey actually works his way through processing 10 different images from start to finish and follow along each step of the way. This video download normally sells for $99 but we are giving away 3 completely free!

It couldn’t be easier, all you have to do is leave a comment below telling us why you love HDR photography. That’s it! The contest will run 48 hours, and when the timer runs out we will choose 3 random winners.

If you don’t win, no worries! You can still purchase the video tutorial for a special DPS discount of 10% using the coupon code “DPSISREALLYAWESOME” at checkout. Just follow this link to purchase the tutorial.

Note: This coupon code will only be good from now until the end of the year! It is good for all 3 ordering options

Trey is best known for his site, StuckInCustoms.com, which has become the #1 Travel Photography Blog on the internet with around 350,000 visits per month including one from his mom. He’s also on Flickr and SmugMug, where his photos have recently passed over 45 million views. His work first became popular after he had the honor of having the first HDR photo ever to hang in the Smithsonian. After that, he was fortunate enough to be represented by Getty, and has been featured on the BBC, ABC, FOX, CBS, and NBC, and has had numerous showings around the world.

High Dynamic Range Photo

High Dynamic Range Photo

High Dynamic Range Photo

High Dynamic Range Photo

James Brandon is a photographer located in Dallas and a lover of iced tea, Chipotle and his wife Kristin (but not in that order). Be sure to check out his daily photo blog and follow him on twitter at @jamesdbrandon.


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Juxtaposition


There are some neighborhoods that the visitor to New York City will likely never see and residents outside those neighborhoods will likely never visit either. Brownsville, East New York, Bedford Stuyvesant and Bushwick are among them. These places often serve as bragging rights for those who grew up there. Surrounded by these neighborhoods is Broadway Junction.I was literally stopped in my tracks - the tracks of a confluence of trains and a massive, hodgepodge conglomeration of structures with every disparate element imaginable - different colors and materials embellished with chain link fences crowned with barbed razor wire. This is Broadway Junction where East New York Avenue, Broadway, Jamaica Avenue, Fulton Street and Interboro Parkway pass, along with subway stations for the A, C, J, L, Z and the Long Island Railroad.Nearby, at 1520 Herkimer Street, I happened across the Calvary Free Will Baptist Church. A perfect addition to the ultimate juxtaposition ...

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How to Promote your Photography using Facebook

A Guest Post by Saurabh Jain.

facebook_logo.pngBeing an amateur photographer, promoting my photography from commercial stand?point was difficult. I started my own website (burning a good amount of cash) whose promotion took me endless mailers and sharing on social networks, resulting in a page?loads exceeding my expectations however, generating almost no business. I had a feedback mechanism which never saw light of more than a couple of dozen comments. Upon investigating I concluded that reaching out to mass audience is possible via mail but to remain fresh in their memory is not possible and eventually you are branded as a virtual terrorist disguising under email bombing!

Therefore, I decided to give Flickr a try, I received considerable amount of comments and small business. No doubt Flickr is a great photo?sharing and networking tool but nothing beats Facebook, though it doesn’t provide you with great photography tools like Flickr, when it comes to promoting your commercial interests or otherwise.

Flickr enables you to connect to a large photographer community which may not really boost your business since most of them do what you are also looking at. However, through Facebook you really reach out to the audience who would be interested in hiring your services or buying your prints (if they like your work that is).

Best way to promote your photography is to start your Fan page (best naming option would be “(your name) photography” or name of your studio).

Starting a Fan page is easy but you should take care of certain things right from the onset to ensure a smooth run:

As butterflies are attracted to beautiful flowers so are humans. People will be attracted to your photos if you can titillate their visual senses and unless your photographs appeal to them they wouldn’t lift that finger to press the like button. Hence, before starting a fan page have a backing of strong photographs which will pheromonise the fan base.

Having created a Fan page, do not rush to upload all your work at once. Hold on! take a deep breath and control the anxiety to showcase your work. It is a slow rather laborious task which is sure to reap benefits if carried out patiently.

Start with uploading a couple of your best photos. Invite your friends requesting them to join the Fan page. Be polite and thank them once they have joined. You would want to treat others as you’d like to be treated.

Most important thing to do is not to clog your page with more than one photo a day. It will help you get a more focused response from your fan base and will keep them away from blocking your posts appearing on their wall.

Posting a lot of photos at a time may irritate the viewer resulting in a more negative publicity rather than positive. Also, a person loses the patience to sit and comment on all the photos. Having a single photo ensures that you get all the eyeballs you year for!

The guru?mantra here is “Focus on quality rest all will follow” Upload only the shots which make you say out loud “Wow”. Posting not?so?good photos or just for the sake of posting will only result in a lower brand value. Make sure when you post, you post the best!

Be proactive and alert! Create content which has a chronological, social or political importance and touches your fan base.For example on Children’s day I posted a photo of a kid in her dad’s arms and gave out a message on female infanticide which got me hits of over 300 people. The photo was shared by a lot of users which helped me gain more user base.

Don’t shy away from tagging people. It only increases your brand value and fan base. As, a photo once tagged is displayed on the wall of the entire friends list of that person. Moreover, people feel happy if they are being tagged.

As getting that one shot may take several agonising hours so does getting users to your fan page. Consider some interesting facts from the most popular fan pages.

Roger Federer’s official page with 5 Million fan base gets only 0.5% response (includes likes and comments)at max per post.

Facebook’s own page which has over 26 Million fans gets roughly between .1 to .3% response.

Therefore, reach out to a set of audience you think could help you with the business. If you are a wedding photographer, it makes little sense to promote your page to someone in Iran when your operational area is limited to India. It will surely increase the number of users but may not lead to commercial benefits.

Personally, I am very choosy of who joins my page and with a fan base of around 450 my photos receive response of somewhere between .8% and 7% with an average of 4.2%.

Being selective has helped me stay close to constructive criticism and has helped me generate constant revenues which otherwise may not have been possible. Initially, it was a little tough but as the good work started spreading, word also spread. My work has taken me to a lot of places across India (all expenses paid).

Once you have constant revenues, you may opt for Facebook ads which are highly customisable as per age and locational preferences. They work out real cheap!

If you take care of above points it is sure to result in a great fan page with quality fan base. Do you run a fan page? How is your experience from commercial stand?point?

note from the editor: Don’t forget to check out the dPS facebook page here. ‘Like’ us to stay in touch.

Check out more from Saurabh Jain on his… Facebook Page!

Guest Contributor This post was written by a guest contributor to DPS. Please see their details in the post above. Become a Contributor: Check out Write for DPS page for details about how YOU can share your photography tips with the DPS community.


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Nikon D3100 Review

The Nikon D3100 is an entry-level digital SLR camera boasting a newly designed 14-megapixel DX format sensor, a quick-access Live View mode, one-touch Full HD video recording with autofocus, plus an interactive Guide mode, a sensor dust buster and an 11-point autofocus module. With a sensitivity range of ISO 100-3,200, expandable to ISO 12,800, the Nikon D3100 is well suited to most lighting conditions. Aimed at the complete beginner, the Nikon D3100 is available for £429.99 / $579.95 in the UK and the USA, respectively.

Like last year's D3000, the new Nikon D3100 is a rather small DSLR camera, although it does come with a fairly chunky right-hand grip that makes it better suited to hand-held shooting than some of its competitors. Still, expect having to find a place for your little finger under the camera if you have larger-than-average hands.

The body itself is mainly plastic, but while the camera certainly doesn't feel as robust as some of the company's higher specified models, it still exudes a degree of quality you might not expect at this price point. This is helped by the surprisingly classy rubber coating on the grip, which also appears on the thumb rest in the back of the camera.

The Nikon D3100's body is a new design, 30 grams lighter than that of its predecessor, but the designers have gone to great lengths to make sure most controls are in the same places as before. The most notable changes to the outside of the camera include the omission of the infrared remote sensor that used to be in the grip of the D3000 (the Nikon D3100 accepts a wired remote release cable only), the appearance of a built-in monaural microphone on the front plate and an all-new drive-mode lever at the top (which we love because it makes setting and checking the current drive mode very easy and straightforward), plus a spring-loaded lever in the back that takes you to Live View mode at the flick of a thumb. Said lever encircles a red button that acts as a movie shutter release, enabling one-touch video recording when you are in Live View.

The 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 VR kit lens that Nikon supplied feels fairly well-balanced - if a tad front-heavy - on the Nikon D3100 and it fits into place with a reassuring mechanical click. It also adds the very important advantage of Vibration Reduction. Nikon bodies don't offer any form of in-camera image stabilisation, unlike similar models from Sony, Pentax and Olympus, so the affordable 18-55mm VR lens is a good investment.

The Nikon D3100 follows conventional DSLR design in having a shooting mode dial on the top of the camera, which allows you to select either one of the advanced modes like Manual, Aperture- or Shutter-priority, or a number of scene modes. The Guide mode first seen in the D3000 has also been carried over, and enhanced to include reference photos that demonstrate the effect of each exposure setting. The main purpose of the Guide mode remains the same as on the D3000, namely to teach beginners about what settings to use in a number of shooting situations, and how these settings influence the final output. We feel that Nikon deserves kudos for this, as a mode like this can teach beginners a lot more about the basics of photography than the green Auto mode in which the camera assumes control of almost everything. Speaking of which, we think we have found a bug with the green Auto mode - to wit, it appears to always choose a high ISO speed in low light, even when you use the flash (the cat pictures in our Samples gallery are good examples of this).

The Exposure Compensation button is thoughtfully positioned next to the shutter release. Hold down this button with your right forefinger and spin the control wheel on the top-rear of the camera with your thumb to adjust its settings - simple and intuitive. In M mode, this easy-to-reach button allows you to toggle between aperture and shutter speed settings, making the lack of a second control wheel less problematic. The other button sitting next to the shutter release, labelled 'info', is arguably at the heart of the Nikon D3100's ease-of-use, as the camera lacks the monochromatic status LCD of the D7000, so Nikon had to provide a different way to check vital shooting information without having to look into the viewfinder. Enter the info button - pressing it displays virtually all of the camera's main settings on the large rear screen.

Unlike the D3000, where this screen functions only as a status panel and menu display  while shooting, the D3100 also uses it for Live View and movie recording. As noted above, the Nikon D3100 has a spring-loaded lever in the back, which makes entering Live View a very easy and simple affair - just flick this lever with your thumb, and the camera goes into Live View without further ado. By default, the D3100 quits this mode after only 30 seconds (you can see an overlaid timer counting down), although a tap on the shutter release or a change in exposure settings resets the counter - we are not quite sure why this automatic termination of Live View has been implemented in the first place, as we have not seen anything like this before.

In Live View the camera autofocusses using the contrast detect method. Depending on the AF mode set, you can either initiate this via a half-press of the shutter release, or have the camera keep focussing continuously. The first method is noticeably faster than on earlier models like the D90, though still not nearly as quick as the phase detection method used outside Live View. The other autofocus mode, called full-time AF, can be more of an annoyance than a benefit, as the picture might go out of focus just before you wanted to take a shot (though you can at least lock focus by half-pressing the shutter release when you think focus is where it should be).

Of course you can also focus manually while in Live View mode. As with earlier LV-enabled models, it is possible to magnify into the live image by repeatedly pressing the button labelled with a loupe icon - however, due to the combination of a large but relatively low-resolution screen and what appears to be a lo-res live view feed, this magnification is not much help. On a related note, it is getting a bit annoying that Nikon still doesn't offer a live histogram to help you get the exposure right when working in Live View.

Also new to the Nikon D3100 is its 1080p Full HD “D-movie” mode. At the highest resolution setting, the camera can record movies at cine standard 24fps; while at  1280x720 pixels you can choose from 24, 25 or 30 frames per second. The Nikon D3100 is the first true DSLR camera to offer full-time autofocus in movie mode, but you may quickly decide to turn this feature off. For one thing, the sound of the focus motor in the lens gets picked up by the microphone. For another, the subject may go out of focus for no apparent reason. If you really want to make sure an erratically moving subject stays sharp throughout the clip, you had better stop down the lens for enough depth of field to work with, and leave all shallow-DOF trickery to static or predictably moving subjects.

With the Nikon D3100, you are not getting much in the way of exposure control when shooting movies. The aperture can be pre-set before you start filming, but gain and shutter speed will be controlled by the camera. By default, exposure changes with subject luminance while capturing a clip, although you can at least lock exposure by holding down the AE Lock button. The camera does not provide any special feedback on focus or highlight blow-out (i.e. no “peaking” or “zebras” like in professional video cameras), and there is no manual control over audio levels, either. Sound is recorded by way of the built-in monaural microphone, with no way to hook up an optional external stereo mic to improve audio quality. Videos are compressed using the H.264 codec and stored in a MOV container. Movie quality is, thankfully, good with excellent resolution and good dynamic range; although your footage may suffer from various “rolling shutter” effects when doing quick pans or shooting hand-held with a telephoto lens.

Of course the Nikon D3100 is first and foremost an SLR, so Live View and video recording are add-on features, more than anything else. The camera's primary function is to take still photographs, and for that, you do not have to use Live View. Like all SLRs, the D3100 has a proper through-the-lens optical viewfinder too, albeit it lacks the on-demand grid lines of the D3000. The viewfinder is not as large as that of a D300s, for example, but you wouldn't expect it to be at this price point anyway. The positions of the 11 autofocus sensors are permanently but unobtrusively marked on the focusing screen with 11 tiny dots. In single-point AF mode - in which you can specify which AF point the camera should use -, the active autofocus point lights up in red upon a half-press of the shutter release. The other available AF area modes include Auto Area, Dynamic Area and 3D Tracking; all of which work in a similar fashion to the respective AF area modes of the D5000 and the D90. Autofocus speeds with the kit zoom weren't stellar, but focussing with the optical viewfinder was still a lot faster than in Live View mode. Focus accuracy left a bit to be desired, especially when using one of the off-centre focus points. (AF point selection is done by way of the four-way pad, a simple and intuitive solution.)

We need to note that just like most other entry-level Nikon dSLRs, the Nikon D3100 lacks a body-integral focus motor, so it can only autofocus with AF-S and AF-I lenses, which have the AF motor built in. Other AF Nikkors can be used in manual-focus mode only, although the AF sensors remain active and can at least provide focus confirmation via the green dot in the in-finder LCD. There is also an “electronic rangefinder” function that can be enabled via the menu; this tells you how far you are from perfect focus, and which way you need to rotate the focus ring to acquire it. Manual-focus AI and AI-s lenses without a CPU can only be used in M mode, and the camera will refuse to provide any form of metering, so you will either have to use an external meter or take a few test shots to determine the optimal exposure. Focus confirmation, however, works with these lenses too, via the green dot; albeit the afore-mentioned “electronic rangefinder” functionality is disabled. One interesting thing I have found is that if you shoot a D-movie using a non-CPU lens, the camera will adjust exposure normally, so the lack of metering only applies to stills.

For the images already captured, the Nikon D3100 offers a broad range of retouching tools, including post-capture D-lighting (useful if you forgot to turn on Active D-lighting before capture), red-eye correction, trimming, monochrome conversion, different filter effects, colour balancing, image resizing, image overlay, in-camera raw processing,  distortion correction, and a miniature effect that mimics a look that can otherwise only be achieved with a tilt lens. Many of these functions make it unnecessary to buy specialised computer programs or plug-ins and spend hours in front of a computer to achieve a desired/popular effect.

The Nikon D3100 is powered by a proprietary Lithium-ion battery and ships with a cordless charger that plugs directly into a mains socket. For storage, the camera uses SD, SDHC and, for the first time in a Nikon DSLR, SDXC memory cards. As far as connectivity goes, there are A/V Out, mini HDMI and USB terminals and a proprietary connector for an optional cable release or GPS unit.

This concludes our evaluation of the Nikon D3100's ergonomics, handling and features - let's now move on to that all-important aspect of a digital camera: image quality.

ShareThis If you enjoyed this review, please spread the word by bookmarking or promoting it on social sites, post it on Facebook, or email it to a friend!

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DIWAPhotographyBLOG is a member of the DIWA organisation. Our test results for the Nikon D3100 have been submitted to DIWA for comparison with test results for different samples of the same camera model supplied by other DIWA member sites.


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Why Is The Snow In My Pictures So Blue?

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Snow! Some of us love to see the white stuff falling from the sky, as long as we don’t have to drive through traffic in it. Now imagine not only do the kids have the day off from school, but you don’t have to report to work! It’s time to go play in the….wait a second….why is the snow blue in half of my pictures? I don’t remember there being any blue snow.


Blue snow happens because not all cameras see things the same way. Our human eyes and brain are still a thousand times better than the average camera at tasks like HDR, contrast and color correction. For those of us without certain conditions such as color blindness, we see snow under daylight conditions, for the most part, as snow. White stuff. In the sun? White. In the shade? White. Even in the dark of night, it usually looks white, unless colored by some city lights.


Blue snow happens when a camera fails to recognize what snow looks like in the shade. Again, different cameras will handle things differently and maybe your camera is spot on, all the time. But maybe you get blue snow. I know I have from time to time, even with quality cameras.

With a point and shoot camera, use the ?Shade? white balance, if the camera has it. This setting can also be used with a DSLR. ?Shade? tells the camera all the light hitting the main subject has come from indirect sources from the sun. This light is about 7500K, while noon-day daylight is around 5000K (give or take a few hundred K). If a camera is pointed to a sunny scene and then pointed at shade, it may not switch fast enough. This also happens if the scene is a mix of shade and directly lit objects.


Mind you, even when not shooting snow, this blueish colorcast will be there, but it is not always as noticeable depending on the colors in the shade. Something might not seem right and if there is not a lot of white, the blue cast doesn’t show itself as prevalently.


Let me show some examples of the importance of white balance in snow shots. I’ll use the exact same photo in the first set of examples, adjusting the white balance in Photoshop Lightroom. I will then drop the Blue Saturation in each photo to zero, to show the extent of colorcast (click on photos for 1000 pixel tall examples). This scene contains very little natural occurring blue, even from scattered light (the house is an off-white color).


First, the original shot. ISO 100, 60mm, 1/125sec, f/5.0, Canon 7D, Canon 28mm-300mm lens, shot soon after sunrise. This is the control shot with white balance set to Daylight as selected in-camera (5250K).



Now, I will select Cloudy in Lightroom (6500K). Below it is the same picture with Blue Saturation set to 0.



Next is the Shade setting (7500K).



Lastly, I selected the White Balance Selector tool and pointed it at a spot of well light snow on the railing. This brought back a balance of 9700K.



It is interesting to note the drop in overall blue saturation that is obviously experienced as different settings are selected. As there is less blue, the yellow colorcast becomes more prevalent. From my own interpretation of the scene, the Shade setting is closest to the real life colors. When choosing the snow as a white balance, this swings the scale too far to the right.


If you are wondering what the scene looks like in mixed light, here at the same pictures take around 1pm (a half hour past mid-day sun). ISO 100, 60mm, 1/200sec, f/7.1, Canon 7D, Canon 28mm-300mm lens. Set to Daylight. (5250K)



Now Cloudy. (6500K)



Now Shade. (7500K)



White Balance Selector on the same snow spot in the shade, as before. (9300K)



When I used the White Balance Selector to choose a spot on the sunlit snow, on average the reading came out to 5200K. Here, that white balance is the closest to color renditions in real life and that of the control in the second set of photos.


In a mixed scene, there is little to be done to remove blue snow short of removing all blue saturation in post processing. But then, the scene will often look fake, especially if there are any blue objects in it. A slight decrease in the blue saturation will help and is what I believe our brains do to the images our eyes send it.


Correcting for blue snow can be as easy as selecting the ?Shade? white balance setting on your camera before you begin shooting. While that setting might not have seemed important before, it is vital in removing the blue colorcast most evident when viewing snow photos. It is also important to remember the limits of this setting, especially when moving into direct sunlight.


Now if you will excuse me, I need to go play in the snow before it melts away!


Post from: Digital Photography School








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Hasselblad H4D Ferrari Edition Official Launch

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The Hasselblad H4D Ferrari Edition, which was announced at Photokina, has now been officially launched and priced.


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22 Cool and Colorful Beatles

Macro photography is always an immensely popular subject here on Light Stalking. We’ve covered it in serveral collections and macro tutorials (The Secret of Successful Macro Photography and Macro: Seven Tips for Photographing Insects), but the demand remains. So here are a few great macro photographs of beatles to help inspire and motivate. Enjoy.

Punaise arlequin / Striped Shield Bugphoto © 2009 Jean-Raphaël Guillaumin | more info (via: Wylio)

Bug Posephoto © 2008 Anderson Mancini | more info (via: Wylio)

The bugphoto © 2010 Luca Venturi | more info (via: Wylio)

Green Beatle 1photo © 2006 David | more info (via: Wylio)

Some kind of bug- Best viewed largephoto © 2006 Louise Docker | more info (via: Wylio)

Ready to Chewphoto © 2010 Steve Cyr | more info (via: Wylio)

IMG_1075photo © 2009 tiny_packages | more info (via: Wylio)

Bugphoto © 2005 Jeremiah Dow | more info (via: Wylio)

Assassin Bugphoto © 2010 William Warby | more info (via: Wylio)

Green and black stag beetlephoto © 2007 Louise Docker | more info (via: Wylio)

Cucumber beetlephoto © 2009 Jack Wolf | more info (via: Wylio)

Blue long-horned beetle ???photo © 2008 matthew Fang | more info (via: Wylio)

Green Beetlephoto © 2006 Shek Graham | more info (via: Wylio)

Scarlet Lily Beetlephoto © 2009 Richard Fisher | more info (via: Wylio)

Japanese Beetle on a Stargazer Lilyphoto © 2007 Audrey | more info (via: Wylio)

yellow beetle (EXPLORE)photo © 2009 Angel Visha | more info (via: Wylio)

Beetle No. 97photo © 2008 William Warby | more info (via: Wylio)

Orange beetle on a blade of grassphoto © 2010 Horia Varlan | more info (via: Wylio)

Mr Rainbow Againphoto © 2006 Charles Lam | more info (via: Wylio)

Beetle Yellow 01photo © 2008 Steve Roetz | more info (via: Wylio)

Beetle in the redphoto © 2009 coniferconifer | more info (via: Wylio)

Oxythyrea funesta on a flowerphoto © 2008 Johann Dréo | more info (via: Wylio)


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