Friday, January 28, 2011

White By Design 3


Another blizzard. Last night I was called at midnight and informed there was a major snowfight going on in Washington Square Park. I was too lazy to bundle up and venture out for the photo op. However, I did begin taking photos yesterday, going into last night and into this morning.
I have done many stories on this winter's blizzards and past snowstorms in New York City. I have also done a series of stories called White By Design. See the links below.White By Design, White By Design 2, White By Desire, Blizzard, Friends P1, Friends P2, We Got Skiing Too, Shifting Gears, Snow Play, In Like a Lion, Gotta Shoot Village Cigars, Slush Fun.

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TiltShift Generator for the iPhone

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Some of you might remember when we covered Tilt Shift lenses, as well as some exciting examples of tilt-shift photography.


Some of you might recall that tilt-shift photography has the amazing ability to make any scene look like it is completely miniature. It can also make them look vintage as well.


Now, you can get this interesting App known as TiltShift Generator which adjusts the blur and radius, as well as setting sliders for saturation, brightness, contrast, and vignette effect.


You should be able to get TiltShift Generator for about $1 on iTunes. It can be purchased here.


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Look Inside the Nikon D7000

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Chipworks has dismantled a Nikon D7000 and laid bare its innards for the whole world to see.


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Don’t Let Lack of Preparation Hold Back Your Photography

A huge part of taking a successful photograph is preparation. Sure you can be lucky enough to be on the spot at a time when a perfect shot comes up, but that is not going to happen very often. If you want to get consistently good shots, then preparation is the key. But what does that actually mean in practical terms? Here are nine things you should ask yourself before you go out on a shoot that you will need to consider concurrently.

Where Am I Planning to Shoot? This is a pretty simple one that will get you to think about other considerations. Once you articulate the location, you can start to think about other concerns that will affect your photography. Shooting at a rock concert is going to be a lot different to photographing the moon. Both require very different approaches. This is the first question to ask yourself so that you can think about shooting conditions.

Green Day Concert Stage (Montreal) - Green Day is Ever Greenphoto © 2009 Anirudh Koul | more info (via: Wylio)

What Am I Planning to Shoot? Basically this one comes down to your intention to shoot either moving or inanimate objects. Combined with the questions below, this will have a massive impact on how you prepare. Put simply, shooting architecture at midday is a lot different to photographing celebrities in a nightclub.

What Are the Likely Natural Lighting Conditions? This is probably a key question that will influence your shoot. If you take the time to stop and consider what the lighting conditions will be where you are planning to shoot, then you can prepare for those specific conditions. In some situations you may even be able to dictate what the lighting will be (such as a studio), but in most cases, knowing and preparing for natural lighting conditions is going to be hugely important. Are you shooting in midday sun? Under fluorescent lighting? In a darkened room? Knowing the type of lighting that you will be shooting under helps you prepare your camera and gear for optimum shots.

Koh Samui (THAILAND/LANDSCAPE) IIphoto © 2006 Chi King | more info (via: Wylio)

Will I Be Able to Shoot Uninterrupted? Shooting in a studio that you have set up yourself with a professional model is a lot different to being spat on and kicked as you photograph from the front row of a death metal concert in a mosh pit. The chances that you can set up your gear in perfect conditions are greatly affected by the conditions around you. These conditions will have a huge effect on the choice of camera settings and setup that are available to you. Try to preempt the likely problems by considering where you will be physically standing.

Mosh Pit Warped Tour 2005photo © 2007 mike rushmore | more info (via: Wylio)

What Gear Will I Need For These Conditions? Taking the right gear for the conditions you are shooting in is obviously going to get you better photographs most of the time. At the very least, having gear tailored to your shooting conditions will make your life as a photographer a lot easier. The answers to the questions above will have a huge impact on what gear you decide to take on your shoot. If you take a tripod into a mosh pit, it’s not going to help you a lot, but a wrist strap so you don’t drop your camera is almost a necessity (extreme examples, but you get the idea). What you don’t take is almost as important as what you do take in many situations as weight can be a factor in situations such as outdoor photography.

What Are the Best Camera Setting for The Expected Conditions? Once you know that you are shooting in certain lighting and have additional information above, you can start to think about your camera settings. If you are shooting a sailing regatta, you know that you will be shooting under bright sunlight so high shutter speed and low ISO will be fine. Shooting a late afternoon or evening scene with a lot of movement or action might require a higher ISO and wider aperture to freeze the action. Consider these things before you get to the shoot and you will be better prepared.

Sail Onphoto © 2010 Sakeeb Sabakka | more info (via: Wylio)

What is Most Likely to Go Wrong? This one is a little harder to identify, but usually it involves lighting conditions that aren’t quite what you had prepared for. In some cases, it also involves gear failure (flat batteries and full memory cards being the most common culprits). Try to prepare for the most likely problems (take extra batteries and memory cards!). A few filters or an extra lens may become a necessity in some situations. It will be different in most scenarios, but a little bit of forethought can mitigate the chances of disaster.

Crashed Fiat Uno in 1990photo © 2010 Mark Hillary | more info (via: Wylio)

How Does This All Connect? Now, obviously all of the above questions need to be considered at the same time. If you know what you’re shooting, where, in which lighting conditions and with which equipment, and the likely camera settings, you can make very specific plans according to what results you are after. You can also research how to shoot in this situation before you go if you’re unsure. It’s a lot to think about, but the more time you put into planning, the more likely that your photographs will turn out as you wanted them to.

What is My Plan B? And sometimes everything just goes wrong. If you can take a backup camera, do it. It’s the only real way to offset total disaster and even then it’s not always enough. Disaster usually comes in the form of gear failure, but there are other situations that can ruin a shoot from transport problems through to changing situations on the ground such as those experienced by photojournalists. If possible, try to think of a plan B.

Planning is really the key to consistently successful photographic shoots. It takes away a lot of the stress of having to change your game on the fly or when you’re already there and shooting. It also gets you in the thought process of getting better images. Do a little planning and things will usually go more smoothly for you.

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Adding Emotion and Feeling To Photographs

One thing that makes a great photo is its ability to convey emotion. Emotion in a photograph, or any work of art, is what helps a viewer connect with a piece if that emotion is prevalent in the viewer. Happiness and joy, sorrow and despair, these are some of the easier emotions as they are universally felt, at one time or another, by all on this planet.

Emotion, or a feeling, is what can bring a snapshot out of obscurity and make it shine. Think of a normal sunset picture from the shores of Hawaii with just the horizon and a bright orange sun dipping low. It’s beautiful for sure and even better when viewed in person. Now pull the zoom back to a wider angle and show a couple in silhouette, sitting on lounge chairs facing the waves and reaching to each other to hold hands. Different people will connect with each photo in different ways, or maybe not at all. Those in a romanic mood will enjoy the photo of the couple and those looking for calm without distraction may enjoy the singular sunset.

My point here is you can’t guess which mood people will be in when they view your work. Which is actually a good thing, because the photo should be your expression of what you see and feel through the viewfinder (unless you are attempting a neutrally biased photojournalistic stance). Here then are some tips to help convey emotion and feeling in photographs to help make a stronger connection with viewers.

Your emotional state has the largest impact on the emotional quality of your photos. When I look back through travel photos I will often noticed a dip here and there in the number of photos taken on a particular day. The quality is also off and I can remember just what I was feeling that day. In most cases, I had that, “Just not feeling it today” blah that comes and goes for us all. And it shows in my work. Ok snapshots of mountains, but nothing to write home about.

Other days I feel like the world is my oyster and I’m uncovering hidden gems left and right.

It’s important to understand where you are and realize that will likely come through in your photography (while realizing just like anything in life, some people are really good at faking it). Give yourself a break on the down days and be sure to pick up your camera on the upswings. Just remember that neither lasts forever.

Often a singular emotion gets lost in a busy scene. This goes for photos as well. Simplify the main subject of the image before hitting the shutter release. A wide angle view of a festival in the streets might show the size, which can be impressive in its own right, but the feel of that party is best conveyed on the faces of those dancing or performing in the crowd. Zero in on the action. It may tell the difference between a large crowd who is standing around, bored or a large crowd having the time of their lives.

This is a fairly straight forward bit of advice that may seem obvious, but many of us avoid people photographs when in a new situations with strangers. When possible, always ask permission before taking a picture of stranger, especially head on. Again, remember your mood will possibly influence theirs and if you are trying to capture them as naturally as can be (without being a sniper hiding in the shadows), keep your demeanor as neutral as can be. Simple raised eyebrows while pointing to your camera does work and it doesn’t require a huge smile on your part, as if you are asking your subject to smile back.

Chances are they will convey what they wish. If life is hard, they likely won’t smile and their face will often tell the tale of their hardships. If they are joyous, or just young, you may get a beaming smile. And with any good portrait, remember to get sharp focus on the eyes.  And share the results with your subject if you can.

I tend to get lambasted when I tell people to stop shooting and set the camera away, so this time I’ll simply tell you to put the camera down for a minute. Forget about shooting and just sit and observe. Your mood has a big part in what and how you shoot, but also realize that being a shooter in a situation often means you travel in a bubble.

To break out of that bubble and absorb more from the world in which you are immersed, sit. And observe for 15 minutes. The mood of those around you will often become more apparent with this relaxed stance.

If you are shooting a subject which you can return to, do it. The same street or beach or room will have a different feel on different days, especially if the weather changes often. And your mood can shift as well from day to day. Return to a location with an open mind for a second look and you may be surprised to find not only are the characters involved different, the feel of the place is different too.

Conveying emotion in photography is a surefire way to help your work connect with those viewing it. It will help lift the quality of your work and give it more punch. Before you hit the shutter release next time, think to yourself, “What emotion am I trying to convey?”


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PhotographyBB Online Magazine Issue #36

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The 36th issue of the free PhotographyBB Online Magazine is now available for download.


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PhotographyBB Online Magazine Issue #36

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The 36th issue of the free PhotographyBB Online Magazine is now available for download. This edition features a number of articles including a look at Google’s new Chrome OS Notebook, from a photography and social media standpoint. The magazine also has a new column on wedding photography techniques, an in-depth look at the crop tool in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3, and a tutorial on learning “to see the impressionist way”. In their Photography Around the World feature they visit Keystone, Colorado, “a destination locale for both cross-country and downhill skiers, snowboarders, and adventure-seekers from all over”. PhotographyBB magazine is available in PDF format for immediate download from the website below.

Website: PhotographyBB



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Olympus E-PL2 Review

The Olympus E-PL2 is the fourth Micro Four Thirds camera from Olympus and the successor to the one-year-old E-PL1 model. The Olympus E-PL2 remains an affordable mass-market camera, with a small and light plastic chassis to help keep the price down. Key changes from the E-PL1 include a larger, higher resolution 3 inch LCD screen, the extension of the easy-to-understand, non-technical Live Guide to incorporate the HD Movie mode, a circular Live Wheel feature selector on the rear, Dramatic Tone art filter, ISO range of 200-6400, and a new version of the 14-42mm kit lens. There’s also a new Accessory Port 2 connector which accepts the PENPAL Communication Unit for Bluetooth connectivity and the Macro Arm Light for precision illumination of macro photos, and there are three new conversion lenses available (wide-angle, macro and fish-eye). The E-PL2 retains the original model’s 12.3 megapixel sensor, sensor-shift image stabilisation, Supersonic Wave Filter for automated sensor cleaning, one-touch HD video recording, and 3fps continuous shooting for up to 10 raw images. The Olympus E-PL2 is available now in silver, black, white and red at a retail price of £500 / $599 for the 14-42mm single lens kit.

The Olympus E-PL2 is virtually identical to its predecessor in terms of its design, so a lot of the comments that we made in our review of the E-PL1 will be repeated here. The Olympus E-PL2 takes advantage of the mirror-less nature of the Micro Four Thirds standard to offer a smaller and lighter solution that more traditional DSLR cameras, targeting those users who want to trade up from a compact but who are scared away by the size and complexity of a DSLR.

With it's all-plastic body the E-PL2 is one of the lighter models in this category, weighing 317g, a little more than the E-PL1, and it measures 115.4 x 72.7 x 42mm. The E-PL2 has a plastic construction with a metal lens mount, although it still feels reassuringly well-made with very little flex in the overall design. The depth and weight increase when the supplied poly-carbonate mounted 14-42mm kit lens is fitted, making the E-PL2 instantly more DSLR-like, but fitting a pancake lens like Olympus' 17mm or Panasonic's 20mm creates a compact overall package that will particularly suit street photographers looking for an indiscrete camera.

The E-PL2 continues the more modern styling of the E-PL1, with both a lot more neutral than the overtly retro design of the E-P1 and E-P2, making them appeal more to the younger and inexperienced audience that this model is aimed at. Our black review sample has lost the silver metal accents of the E-PL1 and subsequently looks more serious as a result. There's also a more generous, textured black rubberised hand-grip on the left-front of the camera which I prefer to the E-PL1's hand-grip, and a shiny black panel on the rear where most of the controls are located. The E-PL2 is better constructed than you'd expect given its relatively small size, light weight and budget price-tag, certainly on a par with most entry- and mid-level DSLRs.

One of the biggest changes to the E-PL2 is not to the camera body, but the kit lens that ships with it. Olympus have updated the 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 to make it smaller, lighter, slimmer and shorter when fully extended than the original version. This means that the lens mount doesn't take up quite so much of the front of the camera, making room for the larger hand-grip, and it also makes the overall package slightly lighter and more compact. Note that it is slightly longer than the original when in the locked position, but not by much. It also focuses internally, resulting in a much quieter lens that is virtually silent in operation, which also offers the benefit of not extending when focusing, perfect for filter users. Perhaps most importantly, it's also faster to focus than the original, which literally often made us miss that decisive moment. The only minus point in terms of design is purely a cosmetic one, with the silver band at its base making it look cheaper than the all-black Mark I version.

Large metal neck strap eyelets are located on top of the camera at the sides, with the rear dominated by the larger fixed 3 inch LCD screen. When it comes to storing your photographs the E-PL2 uses SD / SDHC / SDXC cards. The BLS-5 battery which provides up to 500 shots under the CIPA testing standard (note that this drop to 280 images if using Live View all the time) is housed next to the SD slot, both protected by a plastic lockable cover. Also found on the bottom of the camera is a metal tripod mount located almost in the centre of the camera body, although not in line with the centre of the lens.

As with the E-PL1, there is no optical viewfinder as on a DSLR. Instead, you can choose to buy the excellent detachable VF-2 viewfinder which slots into the E-PL2's hotshoe on top of the camera and is tilt-able to 90° so the camera can be used as you would a medium format model and with 100% field of view. The EVF has a new port to connect to, dubbed AP2, which is situated just below the E-PL2's hotshoe and protected with a slide-off piece of plastic that will quickly get lost in the recesses of your camera bag. This port also allows the attachment of an accessory microphone if so desired via the EMA-1 adapter, the new PENPAL Communication Unit for Bluetooth connectivity and the Macro Arm Light for precision illumination of macro photos. Olympus didn't supply any of these accessories, so we can't comment on their performance.

The E-PL2 has a built-in pop-up flash, activated by a switch on the rear. This uses a folding design to raise the flash as high as possible above the lens, much like the one on the Panasonic GF series of cameras. It has a guide number of 7 at ISO 100, offers a range of flash synchronisation modes, an X-sync speed of 1/160 s / 1/2000 s, the ability to dial-in compensation of +/- 3 EV, and can also be employed to trigger an off camera flash (either the FL-50R or FL-36R).

The E-PL2 has a much improved 3-inch, 460,000-dot rear LCD screen, the same as the one on the E-P2, which has a very wide viewing angle and remains visible outdoors in the sunshine too. The resolution is good for a screen of this size, and it also offers 100% scene coverage. The colour temperature of the screen can be modified if you think it doesn't match that of your calibrated computer monitor, but the contrast and gamma cannot be altered.

The LCD screen doubles-up as a status display, with three different screens on offer, which can be called up by repeatedly pressing the Info button in record mode. These include the camera's key settings and a small live histogram (although sadly not both at the same time), and no information at all. Sadly the E-P1 / E-P2's innovative level gauge, which makes it easy to straighten either the horizontal or vertical horizon, has been dropped from this model, as has the handy live preview of different exposure compensation and white balance settings in a multi-frame window.

You can also change all the important settings right on the LCD screen, which Olympus calls the Super Control Panel. This ingenious solution spares you the pain of having to enter the menu system, and makes most settings changes fairly simple. Pressing the Start / OK button calls up a vertical list of icons that can be selected and changed by using the navigation pad keys. Four of the most often-used functions - exposure compensation, focusing mode, flash and drive mode - each have their own dedicated button mapped onto the four-way navigation pad, although we missed having buttons for the ISO sensitivity and white balance.

The Olympus E-PL2 doesn't have the dual command dials for setting key options like aperture and shutter speed that the EP-1 and EP-2 offer. Instead the E-PL2 uses either the arrow keys on the navigation pad, or the new Live Wheel feature selector which surrounds it. This new control is something of a mixed blessing, proving more intuitive than continually pressing the navigation pad buttons, but more frustrating as it's all too easy to inadvertently press one of the buttons at the same time as spinning the rather small wheel. I lost count of the number of times that I changed the exposure compensation or flash settings instead of the aperture or shutter speed.

In the Manual shooting mode, pressing up and down sets the aperture and left and right sets the shutter speed, or you can use the Live Wheel and press up to alternate between aperture and shutter speed. Overall the combination of arrow keys and the Live Wheel is a simpler solution that's easier for beginners to understand than dual command dials, but more experienced photographers will definitely miss having a DSLR-like command dial, which makes it much easier to change the settings when holding the camera up to your face.

Olympus have attempted to make the E-PL2 more intuitive for beginners by offering the Live Guide mode. Choose the iAuto shooting mode and press the OK button, and you can use an onscreen vertical slider system to change 5 of the camera's key settings - Color Saturation, Color Image, Brightness, Blur Background, Express Motions - as well as see a range of shooting tips. We're not sure about some of the names (Express Motions??), and it's only available in iAuto (the Super Control Panel replaces it in the other shooting modes), but overall Live Guide is quite a good idea if you know what you want to achieve but are unsure of the photographic terminology and methods that more experienced shooters take for granted. New to the E-PL2 is the useful ability to not only take a still picture using the settings that you have chosen in the Live Guide mode, but also shoot a movie too.

Manual focusing is greatly enhanced by the 'enlarged display' function. Once you have selected manual focus mode, press the Zoom In button repeatedly until a green rectangle appears in the middle of the display. You can move this rectangle to one of the 225 available points using the four-way pad, and magnify into it by pressing Zoom In again. The default magnification is 7x, but you can raise this to 10x or 14x by pressing the Info button. This is real, non-interpolated magnification, very useful for accurate manual focusing - provided you find a way to steady the camera. A second press of the Zoom In button will let you see the full frame again.

The main menu system on the E-PL2 is fairly straight-forward to use and is accessed by pressing the Menu button on the rear of the camera. There are six main menus, Camera1, Camera2, Playback, Custom, Accessories and Setup. Annoyingly the Custom and Accessories menus, which allow you to fine-tune the camera to suit your way of working and to access settings for the optional PENPAL and EVF, are hidden by default (there's are options to turn them on in the Settings menu). As mentioned previously, the Super Control Panel on the LCD screen speeds up access to some of the more commonly used options. Due to the large LCD screen and restricting the number of on-screen choices to six, the various options and icons are clear and legible. If you have never used a digital camera before, or you're upgrading from a more basic model, reading the easy-to-follow manual before you start is a good idea. Unfortunately Olympus have chosen not to supply it in printed format, so you can't carry it with you for easy reference.

The E-PL2 has an 11-point contrast detection auto-focus system, which is automatically increased to 25 points when Face Detection is turned on. With a non high-speed contrast AF lens mounted, the camera defaults to Manual Focus mode even if Auto Focus is selected. There's no useful AEL / AFL button on the rear of the camera as on the E-P1 / E-P2. The E-PL2 offers a comprehensive set of exposure modes, including P, A, S and M for advanced users. iAuto mode automatically recognises common scenes and and adjusts the camera settings accordingly to achieve the best results, perfect for complete novices, plus there's a range of different scene modes. The ePortrait scene mode allows you to soften shadows and smooth out unwanted facial features, either before taking the picture or afterwards.

Olympus are also heavily promoting the E-PL2's artistic capabilities, with two features in particular, Art Filters and Multiple Exposure, differentiating it from its main competitors. The 6 different Art Filters are Pop Art, Soft Focus, Grainy Film, Pin Hole, Diorama and Dramatic Tone (which replaces the E-PL1's Gentle Sepia filter) - you can see the results on the Image Quality page. Unlike most other cameras, these effects are applied before taking a shot, rather than afterwards, so you can preview the effect on the LCD screen before pressing the shutter button. The Art Filters can also be applied to previously taken RAW images, either in-camera or with the supplied Olympus "ib" software. Four of the six Art Effects are sub-divided into further options to fine-tune their effect.

The Multiple Exposure function allows two images to be superimposed onto each other, creating a composite, and you can either overlay a previous shot or the image that you are about to take. Multiple Exposure even works with RAW files as well as JPEGs, whilst the Art Filters are applied to a JPEG (with an unprocessed RAW file also saved). The Art Filters are a little over-the-top for my taste, and you can't tweak the default look, but the ability to to change the exposure, white balance and other key settings whilst previewing the effect is very welcome.

While the Art Filters get their own setting on the Mode Dial, the Multiple Exposure option is inexplicably buried away in the main menu system. The E-PL2 offers also four different aspect ratios that enable individualised framing of scenes, including the default 4:3 ratio employed by the Micro Four Thirds system. The available aspect ratios are: 4:3, 3:2, 16:9 and 6:6. They're quite a good way of personalizing your shots in-camera, with the ability to preview the effect again proving particularly useful.

The Olympus E-PL2 has a built-in mechanical image stabilisation system which can be turned on and off via the main menu. Four different options are available - Off, On (I.S. 1), turn off the horizontal image stabilizer but leave on the vertical one (I.S. 2) or turn off the vertical image stabilizer but leave on the horizontal one (I.S. 2), both for when you want to pan with your subject and keep it sharp while the background blurs. The IS system offers up to 4 EV steps of stabilisation - in practice I found that 3 EV steps was more readily achievable. Also available is the impressively named Supersonic Wave Filter, whereby any dust particles that drift inside while changing lenses settle on a filter that protects the image sensor, and are then shaken clear when the camera powers down.

The Olympus E-PL2 offers a number of features inherited from Olympus' DSLR cameras. Among these are Pixel Mapping and spot metering, which comes in no less than three variations: midtone-based, shadow-based and highlight-based. The latter two make life easier for those who know what spot metering is but do not know how to use it in combination with exposure compensation. These options come on top of the usual centre-weighted and evaluative modes.

The E-PL2 can record high-resolution HD 720p 1280x720 movies in the 16:9 aspect ratio and standard VGA 640x480 movies in the 4:3 aspect ratio, both using the AVI Motion JPEG format at 30 frames per second. The Movie mode is accessed either by selecting the Movie option on the shooting mode dial and then pressing the shutter button to begin recording, or much more conveniently with a single press of the one-touch Motion Picture button on the rear of the camera. The total length of an individual movie clip is restricted to 7 minutes for 1280x720 movies and 14 minutes for 640x480 movies, apparently due to an inherent limit of 2Gb for AVI files. Only Mono sound is recorded during video capture via the small internal mic on the rear of of the camera, but you can at least plug-in an external stereo mic. The HDMI port allows you to connect the E-PL2 to a high-def TV set, but only if you purchase the optional HDMI mini-cable.

You can shoot movies using the Program, Aperture-priority or Manual modes, giving you full control over exposure. Note that you can't change the shutter speed or aperture during recording though. The E-PL2 offers the ability to use any of the 6 Art Filters during video recording as well as still images. This instantly lends an interesting art-house effect to your home movies, with the Grainy Film option being particularly appealing. The frame rate is rather drastically reduced though for some of the filters. A Program option for point and shoot operation completes the movie shooting modes. An Electronic Image Stabilization system compensates for camera shake, and you can take a still shot during video recording, although this also ends the movie rather than just interrupting it. The C-AF+TR focus mode applies to both still and moving pictures, locking the focus point on the main subject and automatically following it around the frame.

You can use a zoom lens during recording and really make the most of the wide range of compatible lenses. Focusing is set as for still images by half-pressing the shutter button. On the negative side, you'll find that if you choose continuous auto-focus, areas of the video will be blurred before becoming sharp again as the camera tries to refocus, and as noted above, the noise of the AF system is very intrusive. Using manual focus is much trickier but will ultimately produce better looking and sounding movies. On a more positive note, having the AF system is better than not being able to auto-focus at all, as with all current DSLR cameras that offer video recording. Hand-holding the E-PL2 during movie recording inevitably leads to obvious shake, despite the electronic image stabilizer, so for best results you'll need a dedicated video tripod.

The start-up time from turning the E-PL2 on to being ready to take a photo is pretty impressive at around 1.5 seconds. Thankfully the Contrast Auto-Focusing system is much faster than on the E-PL1, taking approximately 0.25 second to lock onto the subject and emit a loud beep (which can be turned off). It usually achieves focus most of the time, helped by the AF assist lamp - the E-PL2 doesn't have any notable problems locking onto the subject in low-light situations.

It takes about 2 seconds to store a JPEG image, allowing you to keep shooting as they are being recorded onto the memory card - there is a brief LCD blackout between each image. Storing a single RAW image takes around 4 seconds, but thankfully it doesn't lock up the camera in any way - you can use the menu system or shoot another image while the first file is being written to memory. The Olympus E-PL2 has quite a good Burst mode which enables you to take 3 frames per second for an unlimited number of JPEG images at the highest image quality, or 10 RAW images.

Once you have captured a photo, the Olympus E-PL2 has a good range of options when it comes to playing, reviewing and managing your images. You can instantly scroll through the images that you have taken, view thumbnails (up to 25 onscreen at the same time and in a Calendar view), zoom in and out up to 14x magnification, view slideshows, delete and protect an image, add a sound clip and set the print order.

The Edit option offers a number of different ways to alter the look of an already-captured photo, including shadow adjustment, redeye fix, cropping, changing the aspect ratio, converting to black and white or sepia, boosting the saturation, resizing and applying the e-Portrait filter. The Info button toggles detailed settings information about each picture on and off, such as the ISO rating and aperture / shutter speed, and there are small brightness and RGB histograms available.

In summary the Olympus E-PL2 is a fairly minor update of an already easy-to-use and relatively inexpensive PEN compact system camera model, with a few new features to justify its release.

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DIWAPhotographyBLOG is a member of the DIWA organisation. Our test results for the Olympus E-PL2 have been submitted to DIWA for comparison with test results for different samples of the same camera model supplied by other DIWA member sites.


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Black and white in Lightroom

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Most of us know we can convert and image to black and white in Lightroom by simply pressing the letter V. However, for the exact same image, your version of Lightroom might give a very different result to my version of Lightroom. The explanation is that there are two settings available for black and white conversions in Lightroom.


I?ll show you what these are, how to configure the one you want to use and how to quickly switch between them.


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With a color image on the screen in Lightroom?s Develop module, press the letter V to convert it to black and white.


Open the B&W panel ? it?s called Greyscale in Lightroom 2 ? and check out the color sliders.


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Depending on the preferences that you have set, the sliders might all be set to zero or they might show a black and white adjustment tailored to the image itself which Lightroom calls Auto mix.


The auto mix adjustment applies an auto exposure adjustment to the image as well as a conversion that maximizes the distribution of the grey tones in the image. This is customized for the image so every image will be given a custom adjustment much as you will get if you click the Auto Tone button in the Basic panel. Notice the subtle differences in the histograms in each of the adjustments here.


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Whether or not you see this Auto mix applied to a black and white image is controlled by your Lightroom preferences. To see these, choose Edit > Preferences (or Lightroom > Preferences on the Mac), select the Presets tab and there?s an option there which reads ?Apply auto tone mix when first converting to black and white?.


If this is checked you will get the auto tone mix applied to the image, if not, you will see a black and white adjustment where each color is given the same adjustment value of zero.


Lightroom_black_and_white_step3.jpg


Regardless of which setting is in place you can switch between the two in the B&W panel.


If an Auto mix has been applied, hold the Alt key (Option on the Mac) and you will see an option Reset Black and White Mix. Click this and all the sliders will be set back to zero.


Lightroom_black_and_white_step4.jpg


On the other hand, if your sliders are all set at zero, click Auto to apply the auto mix adjustment to the black and white image.


Lightroom_black_and_white_step5.jpg


You can further adjust the black and white regardless of whether you have an auto mix applied automatically to it or not by adjusting the sliders.


You can also select the Target Adjustment Tool and drag on an area of the image to adjust whether it is light or dark. Dragging downwards will darken it, dragging upwards will lighten it.


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Black and white in Lightroom

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Most of us know we can convert and image to black and white in Lightroom by simply pressing the letter V. However, for the exact same image, your version of Lightroom might give a very different result to my version of Lightroom. The explanation is that there are two settings available for black and white conversions in Lightroom.

I’ll show you what these are, how to configure the one you want to use and how to quickly switch between them.

Lightroom_black_and_white_step1.jpg

With a color image on the screen in Lightroom’s Develop module, press the letter V to convert it to black and white.

Open the B&W panel – it’s called Greyscale in Lightroom 2 – and check out the color sliders.

Lightroom_black_and_white_step1a.jpg

Depending on the preferences that you have set, the sliders might all be set to zero or they might show a black and white adjustment tailored to the image itself which Lightroom calls Auto mix.

The auto mix adjustment applies an auto exposure adjustment to the image as well as a conversion that maximizes the distribution of the grey tones in the image. This is customized for the image so every image will be given a custom adjustment much as you will get if you click the Auto Tone button in the Basic panel. Notice the subtle differences in the histograms in each of the adjustments here.

Lightroom_black_and_white_step2.jpg

Whether or not you see this Auto mix applied to a black and white image is controlled by your Lightroom preferences. To see these, choose Edit > Preferences (or Lightroom > Preferences on the Mac), select the Presets tab and there’s an option there which reads “Apply auto tone mix when first converting to black and white”.

If this is checked you will get the auto tone mix applied to the image, if not, you will see a black and white adjustment where each color is given the same adjustment value of zero.

Lightroom_black_and_white_step3.jpg

Regardless of which setting is in place you can switch between the two in the B&W panel.

If an Auto mix has been applied, hold the Alt key (Option on the Mac) and you will see an option Reset Black and White Mix. Click this and all the sliders will be set back to zero.

Lightroom_black_and_white_step4.jpg

On the other hand, if your sliders are all set at zero, click Auto to apply the auto mix adjustment to the black and white image.

Lightroom_black_and_white_step5.jpg

You can further adjust the black and white regardless of whether you have an auto mix applied automatically to it or not by adjusting the sliders.

You can also select the Target Adjustment Tool and drag on an area of the image to adjust whether it is light or dark. Dragging downwards will darken it, dragging upwards will lighten it.

Helen Bradley is a Lifestyle journalist who divides her time between the real and digital worlds, picking the best from both. You can view her site at helenbradley.com. She writes and produces video instruction for Photoshop and digital photography for magazines and online providers world wide. She has also written four books on photo crafts and blogs at Projectwoman.com.


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Olympus E-PL2 Review

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The brand new Olympus E-PL2 is the second PEN camera aimed directly at the compact owner looking to upgrade to a more capable, but still portable and relatively inexpensive, camera. Key improvements over the year-old E-PL1 model include a larger LCD screen, faster auto-focusing, and a new kit lens. Read our expert Olympus E-PL2 review to find out if it hits the mark.

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Sample 11

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Sample 11 is the fourth annual group show of theprintspace clients? work.


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